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Intrigue Café and Terrace- If it’s a hot summer
night, head to the new Intrigue Café and Terrace at the Boston Harbor Hotel. The combination of
good food, outdoor flowered terrace overlooking the harbor(and the new architectural gem
of the Federal Court House across the water,)live music(on certain nights,)
just can’t be beat. The food
ranges from Pizza to Grilled Salmon and Lamb Chops, and it’s all good. For a
great summer drink, try the
Strawberry Sorbet Daiquiri….is it GOOD! (5-stars) Monica’s Restaurant and Grill- This charming new addition to the ever-growing new restaurants
of the North End, is owned by the same Monica who
owns the Pizzeria and the Salumeria in the neighborhood, and run by her four burly
Argentinian-Italian sons. The menu covers a wide-range of Italian dishes on the "alta-cucina" up-scale of the
Italian food line…don’t look for eggplant parmigiana, veal scallopini, or many common "red-sauce"
dishes here. There were six of us dining, and each one was more than satisfied
with his/her dish. The décor is simple/classy and the service is very attentive. (4-stars) RESTAURANT REVIEW- "DISH" Restaurants seem
to be popping up all over the area known as (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- THE FEDERALIST Open only
three months, this lavish (5-Star) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE Relatively
new to (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "White Star Tavern"(Back Bay Boston) What used to
be the "new age/touchy-feely" vegetarian restaurant, "Small
Planet," has been reborn as a very upscale, yuppified, restaurant in the
Back Bay. Although the people were often two-deep at the long bar, it's still
more of a trendy place to eat, than it is a place to go for a drink(the tavern
in the name is a misnomer.) Not that the food is anything exceptional. The
menu, although small, is interesting and all over the place, from quesadillas
and nachos, to grilled rib eye, lamb chops, and penne pasta with sun-dried
tomatoes, shallots and arugula in a saffron cream sauce(my choice.) It's all
good, but nothing to write home about. The desserts(chocolate torte) were excellent,
as was the Australian chardonnay. Our table, in the loft, caught the cigarette
smoke from the bar below, and we had to wave frantically to get our waiter to
take our order. Just a little nit-picking, but enough to lower the rating. (3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT REVIEW- "BOMBOA" All of the
beautiful people, who have been populating the bar and dining rooms of Mistral
and Radius for the past couple of years, have now moved on to the latest
hot-spot in town, Bomboa, on the border of the Back Bay and the South End(in
Boston.). Don't walk too quickly through the bar area and its' zebra-skinned
banquettes, or else you'll miss the fashion show of models in their Armani,
Versaci, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana duds. The back room is relatively
subdued, although the waiters in their South- Beach- black are somewhat
imposing, as is the large rear-wall aquarium! The dishes on the menu are all
South American, as a French chef would prepare them. At our table we had Chevre
Salad, Steak Tartare and Kahlua Cocktail(!) as appetizers, and Steak Frites,
Cassoulet, and my Artichoke and Mushroom Puree with Truffles and New Potatoes
as entrees. Presentation, Service, and Ambience were all excellent, but the
food fell just a bit short of the 5-Star category. Desserts...Wine Soup with
Citrus Fruits and Sorbet, Kahlua Cocktail(!), and Pineapple and Macaroon Tart
with Sorbet, were original and first rate. (4-Stars) Nick After the
movie, my friend Jack and I went to a pub right in Kenmore Square(near Fenway
Park) that I must have passed hundreds of times, and never thought to go in,
because it looked seedy from the outside. Inside it's a terrific place, with
every beer that you could think of, and some good food to go along with it.
When I go to a new pub, I always try the Shepherd's Pie if it's on the menu. It
was, and it was very good. Not as excellent as the one at Molly Darcy's, but
very good, and different. The gimmick in this authentic-looking pub is that
they have dozens of board games up front that people can check out and play
while they're drinking. The people at the table opposite us were playing
"Sorry." If there were more of us, I would have checked out
"Clue," "Risk," or "Monopoly!" A fun time. (3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- El
Pelon Taqueria In what is
primarily a neighborhood take-out place, you can sit down at one of the six
tiled tables and eat some of the freshest, best prepared Mexican food in town.
My friend Scott and I had one of just about everything on our table(e.g.,
fresh-baked chips and salsa, burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas, tamales.)
Everything was delicious, and it's all very reasonable. In a take-out
"joint" you don't look for interesting decor, but here, you get it.
Study the pictures on the walls, (and in the bathroom;) thery're fascinating.(3
1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- Carlo's Cucina Italiana It's always
fun to find an honest-to-goodness neighborhood Italian restaurant, one that
serves good, wholesome, basic dishes, with decent prices, in an unpretentious
setting. If that's what you're looking for, and you're in the Allston
neighborhhood, then Carlo's is the place! The menu is simple, with all of the
usual appetizers, pastas, and veal and chicken dishes prepared in the usual
way. No big surprises here. What is a surprise is that everything we had was
good. Just don't expect goat cheese and truffle raviolis here! The only
negative is the place itself. It's small, cramped, and overly crowded. Everyone
appears to be at your table. In spite of this, the service was good.(3
1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Garden of Eden Cafe" The Garden of
Eden is a neighborhood cafe in the South End, but it's very similar to the
kinds of roadside cafes that are to be found in the countryside in France. Nothing
pretentious about the decor(wooden communal tables, as well as round cafe
tables,) or the food(Choucroute Garnis, Flank Steak with Potatoes and
Asparagus, Spinach Tortellini withWine-Herb Sauce and Leeks.) The cheese tray
is exceptional, and I was introduced to a delicious new cheese(new to me)
called Morbier. Everyone seems to know everyone else in here, adding to the
neighborhood feeling of this bistro/cafe. However, other than the delicious
homemade desserts(made on the premises,) the food is really nothing out of the
ordinary. From the homey look of the place, you really expect better than what
you get.(3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- Maggiano's Little Italy Boston has a
brand new family-style restaurant in the theater district, similiar to Vinny
Testa's and La Famiglia here in town, and Carmine's in New York. It's better
than the two in Boston, and just about as good as Carmine's...and that's VERY
GOOD. The place is huge and beautifully decorated in polished woods, paintings,
and large framed mirrors. The service is the best we've had in ages; our waiter
was extremely friendly AND knowledgeable. You can order a la carte or family
style. If you order family style, you get to choose two large portions(for the
table) from each of six courses, and there are plenty of dishes to choose from
in each course. For four of us, we had Spinach and Artichokes al forno, and
Tomatoes, Bufalo Mozzarrella and Peppers as our appetizer. Maggiano's Salad and
Caesar Salad as our salads. Lasagne and Eggplant Parmesan for our pasta course.
Chicken Piccata and Salmon Limone with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Sauteed
Spinach as our meat/fish dish. Our dessert was Profiteroles with Vanilla Gelato
and Hot fudge Sauce, and Lemon Ice. Everything was delicious. In the nit-picking
departrment, the valet service is run by idiots!(5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- BRISTOL LOUNGE(AT THE FOUR SEASONS) For those of
you who are familiar with "Aujourd' Hui," the premiere restaurant at the
Four Seasons(and arguably Boston's finest restaurant,) you know what to expect
from a restaurant at THIS hotel...excellent service, excellent food, and
excellent ambiance/decor. Well, the "second" restaurant at the hotel
delivers exactly the same. People used to say that the "Bristol
Lounge" was "Aujourd' Hui", but cheaper. Now, unless the prices
upstairs have become stratospheric, I wouldn't call "Bristol Lounge"
cheap at all...not at $150 for two(including wine.) But, it's worth it. While
"Aujourd'Hui" leans to Classic French cuisine, the "Bristol
Lounge" serves up Gourmet American. We had Onion and Gruyere Tart,
followed by a wonderful Wild Rice Risotto with Madeira, and Lobster Bisque,
followed by Chilean Sea Bass with Grilled Vegetables. Dessert was Chocolate
Mousse Tart and Cake. Wine was an excellent Pinot Grigio. Sofas, tables and
chairs are arranged in a large room with a beautiful wood-burning fireplace, as
though you were in the magnificent living room of a mansion on Commonwealth
Avenue.Truly, a fine dining experience;save it for a special occasion.
(5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- COYOTE GRILL There is
certainly no shortage of good Mexican restaurants in the Boston area, but what
sets this new Kendall Square(Cambridge) eatery apart from the others, is that
it is strikingly beautiful in its' decor. It looks as though it was designed by
Georgia O' Keefe! Everything about it is in keeping with the pastels of the
Arizona desert. What isn't unusual is the menu; it boasts all of the same
Mexican dishes that you would find in any other good Mexican restaurant.
However, the food itself IS exceptionally good. Even simple dishes like the
Mexican burger platter (although it had a less mundane name!) were better than
the usual. My Nachos Rancheros could have fed two easily; they were delicious.
Service was excellent...our waiter seated three of us at a table for 6. The
luxury of all that extra room at a table warrants an extra
"star!"(4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- MOLLY DARCY'S (CLOSED) This
wonderful pub could have been transported directly from the streets of Dublin
into Southie. Once you stepped through the wooden front doors into the
smoke-filled side pub, you WERE in Dublin. The wooden walls and floors(with
prints of Ireland on the walls,) the beer glasses hanging from the racks over
the long bar, the patrons glued to the TV watching a football game(in Ireland
it would be soccer,) and the unusual smell of cigarette smoke in a place of
food and drink...this WAS Ireland. In the beautiful side dining room , where
the tables were made of antique sewing machines(!) we were seated quickly, and
ordered too much food for a day when we were going to eat a big meal at night.
But thank goodness we did, because we all had what I thought was the best
Shepherd's Pie that I've had outside of Ireland and the U.K. A wonderful
experience. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- CIBO I had heard
that this was a hot and trendy new addition to the already restaurant-filled
North End, and that the food was quite delicious. What I found was a somewhat
small place, with walls done in a very attractive trompe-l'oeil style (fake
marble columns, brick walls and lots of blue sky,) and an ostentatious waiter,
who loved the sound of his booming preacher-like voice. He was aiming for
subtle humor, and sometimes he hit his mark! As for the food, we shared an
appetizer of pan-fried greens over a crunchy polenta, which I liked very much,
but the others thought was somewhat bland (all portions are huge.) Pete and I
had one of the specials for an entree...tortellini with gorgonzola, sun-dried
tomatoes, pine nuts, and porcini mushrooms. It was delicious, but much too much
food for someone who had an enormous Shepherd's Pie for lunch!!! Chris' gnocchi
(in fresh pomodoro sauce) were somewhat pasty, but Karl said that is Chicken
Valdostana was delicious. Alan's Linguini Carbonara looked good, but not out of
the ordinary. In fact, that's what I would have to say about the restaurant in
general...GOOD, BUT NOT OUT OF THE ORDINARY. The California Pinot Grigio was
excellent, anyway!(3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Austin
Grill" (CLOSED) What can be
said about yet another Tex-Mex restaurant, no matter how good it is? The place
is stylish, trendy, and very large, and it's situated on a busy thoroughfare in
Cambridge(Mass. Ave.), right near MIT, so it'll draw both the MIT and the
Harvard crowds, as well as everyone else. The menu is a clone of Carlito's, and
every other Tex-Mex place in town. The food was somewhat bland, in spite of the
advertised hot sauces, but the beers and the desserts were good. We had a good
group, and the conversation was lively, so I wasn't too concerned that my bean
and cheese burrito entree tasted like wet cardboard...although my Caesar Salad
was excellent.(3-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "EVOO" When I was
flying back from Orlando last week, I read a magazine article in which chefs
from around the country were polled to determine their choices for "best
new restaurants." Their choice in Boston was EVOO. So I immediately moved
it to the top of my "must-eat-at" list, and a group of us went there
tonight to try it out. It's not surprising that this stylish place is not
really in Boston, but in fact, in Somerville. Not surprising, because after I
moved out, some of the best new restaurants started opening up there. Tell you
something? EVOO(stands for "extra virgin olive oil!") does it all
right, starting from its' chic industrial look, to the excellent and unusual
choices on the menu(eclectic American), to the preparation, presentation, and
serving of the food. All top drawer. Two of our group got something called
Chinese box, filled with pulled pork, grilled shrimp, potatos, mushrooms, etc.
It was JUST THAT...an inverted take-out paper box with all of the ingredients
molded into a towering stack. Very creative. Everything was excellent, and we
all came away feeling satisfied. (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
UPDATE- BRASSERIE JO This
excellent restaurant has just eliminated one of their best dishes from the
menu...Beef Wellington(the Saturday night "plat du jour"). Since this
dish was the reason that many people went to Brasserie Jo, I thought that it
warranted a "restaurant UPDATE!" Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- CARLITO'S (CLOSED) Why anyone
would choose to put a huge, fancy Mexican restaurant in the Roxbury ghetto, is
one of the great mysteries, along with the inexplicable popularity of Pokemon,
skateboards, and Andrea Bocelli. But there it is, and if you like the Tex-Mex
variety of Mexican food(tacos, enchiladas, burritos,etc.), and a menu in which
almost every dish is made with chicken, then you'll probably like this new
place. I chose a queso fundido as an appetizer(washed down by a glass of
sangria,)and as an entree, a Mexican pasta in a sauce of chili and creamed
shallots. It was pretty good. Our waitress, unfortunately, was the most
incompetent waitress that I've seen since the medicated one at Lodo in the
North End. She did NOTHING right. Thank goodness the company was good! (2 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BETTY'S WOK &
NOODLE DINER This fun
restaurant has just opened down the block, and it already seems to be a big hit
with the Symphony and Huntington Theater crowd...it was packed tonight. The way
it works is: after you've had your appetizer(I had a delicious
"Caesar" salad with hot ancho dressing,) you then select one of
several types of rice or noodle(I selected Shanghai wheat noodle), then a
sauce(mine was Cuban chipotle and citrus), then what goes with it...chicken,
beef, shrimp, or vegetables(I picked vegetables...which you can select
yourself.)The portions are huge;everything was delicious, and after all of the
spices, I needed the fine lemon-ginger sorbet! All of this came to about $21,
including tip! The diner atmosphere was designed by Peter Niemitz, who designed
the exclusive Clio(our neighborhood's best restaurant), and it's very
attractive. A welcome addition. (3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- HIMALAYA (CLOSED) Although I've
walked past this neighborhood restaurant at least once a week, I never felt the
need to go in because(a) it has an unappealing storefront look, and (b) I
dislike Indian food. After reading a very positive review of it in the Boston
Globe, I thought that I'd give it a try. The first thing that you notice when
you walk in is, what I consider to be an unpleasant odor...the odor of Indian
food! The menu is very long, filled with lots of lamb, rice, spices and breads.
I settled on an appetizer called batata wada(love that name!) which was mashed
potato patties dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried. Very good. My entree
was chicken vindaloo...chunks of chicken cooked with sliced potatos in a very
hot vinegar sauce. Although hot, it wan't nearly as hot as the jerk seasonings
on last night's scallops. This was also very good. Nice experience; no need to
return. (3 1/2-stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- THE NEW LEGAL SEA FOODS The latest
branch of Boston's most famous seafood chain, has opened in the theater
district, and it's by far, the most beautiful of them all. Of course, the food
is excellent, as is the service. I ordered: as an appetizer, corn and crab hush
puppies; as an entree, sea scallops with jerk seasonings, mashed potatos, and
butternut squash; as dessert, blackberry and lemon sorbet...all as perfect as
could be expected.( 4 1/2 stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- LODO (CLOSED) A good dining
experience can easily be ruined by factors that have nothing to do with the
restaurant's food. Last night, this happened to me. These factors included: (a)
four mermbers of our seven member party showing up 35 minutes late...not the
first time that they've done this...leaving the other three people to deal with
an unhappy owner, (b)the most bizarre, incompetent waitress that I've ever
encountered in a restaurant("I'm not an airhead; I'm on cold
medication!!!") Other than that, the food and decor in this relatively new
North End eatery is up there with the best in the neighborhood. All of our
food, ranging from delicious appetizers of pan-seared scallops, to excellent
pasta, seafood and meat entrees was prepared to perfection.(4 1/2 stars for
food; 0 stars for "everything else!" A RESTAURANT
REVIEW- RED CLAY Owner Michela
Larson, and chef, Jody Adams, formerly of "Rialto" and "Upstairs
at the Pudding" both in Cambridge, have opened their new restaurant,
"Red Clay" in the Chestnut Hill Atrium. The restaurant is a triumph
of interior design, in the Adam Tihany mold. In fact, it may HAVE been designed
by Tihany Unfortunately, as the old saying goes, you can't eat the chandeliers!
The only thing truly delicious on the menu, are the appetizers; it's downhill
after that. My friends had Lemon Chicken served in red clay pots(get it?)
which, they said, was quite ordinary. I ordered a pizza for an entree because
my appetizer(eggplant panini with olive tapinade,) was very fillling; the pizza
was just OK. To make matters worse, the service was dreadful...long waits
between everything. Maybe we should have waited a few months! (2 1/2-stars)Nick DE LUX
CAFE- Inside this hot and trendy spot in the South
End, lurks a place where bikers and truckers might eat on a lonely stretch of
road outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico! The walls are covered with Elvis
memorabilia, music of the '50s and '60s is playing, and there's a lighted
Christmas tree on the bar. The clientele, far from the expected grungy, is squeaky
clean and collegiate. The food is surprisingly good, ranging from spiced turkey
wrapped in banana leaves to pork tenderloin in green Thai curry sauce, and
grilled polenta with butternut squash and tomato sauce to chicken quesadillas.
Prices are very reasonable, and the waitress suited the decor...possibly
moonlighting as a bike messenger? (3 1/2-stars) Nick THE BACK EDDY: Chris Schlesinger,
the owner of the East Coast Grill and The Blue Room in Cambridge, has opened a
new riverfront restaurant in Westport, in the Southern part of the state. The
reviews have all been raves. Well, I BEG TO DIFFER! If I'm going to travel 65
miles away from a great sea-food town to GET sea-food, it better be something
very special. On the contrary, the food(most of which is fried!) is very
ordinary, the decor, aside from being right on the water(as is EVERY sea-food
restarant in Boston!), is nothing to write home about, and the service is so
bad that I don't even have a category for it. I can't remember the last time
that I had to deal with such an incompetent waitress.(1 -star) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Grill 23 and Bar" The four
"best" steakhouses in Boston are: Grill 23 and Bar, Morton's, The
Palm, and Capital Grille. The best of the four is Grill 23 and Bar. If you love
your steak, in a beautiful atmosphere loaded with testosterone, this is the
place for you. My appetizer was Marinated Tomatoes & Buffalo Mozzarellas,
and my entree was Grill 23 Meatloaf with chorizo and wood fired tomato coulis.
It was one of the tastiest meatloaf dishes that I've ever had. Dessert was
Fallen Chocolate Souffle Cake(!) Service and presentation were excellent. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- TAVERNA TOSCANA- There's nothing pretentious
about this simple Tuscan restaurant in the North End, except its' excellent
food and gracious service(our waitress had just recently left her home in
Florence to work here.) Although quite small, with tables filling the room, one
doesn't seem to be intruding on the conversations of ones neighbors. I stayed
with the tried and true, a delicious risottto alla contadina,but my friend Pete
ordered an excellent whole (boned) trout with lemon and capers. Both were
cooked to perfection. Unfortunately, the restaurant serves no desserts. (We
went to the Caffe Paradiso, where they serve nothing hut desserts!) The hostess
at the restaurant is an Italian charmer...worth a visit just to talk to her.(4
1/2-stars) Nick ATLANTICA- Our
plans were to have dinner at the Red Lion Inn in Cohasset, prior to seeing
Michael Feinstein at the South Shore Music Circus there. This restaurant was
the only one in Cohasset recommended by both last year's Zagat Survey and AAA.
When we got there, we found that the Red Lion Inn was gutted and undergoing a
restoration! After asking around, we found out that there were two other
restaurants in town. We went to the first, Kimball's to take a look at the room
and the menu. The menu was fine and the room was elegant, but staid(the kind of
place that you'ld take your grandmother to.) We drove to the second, and brand
new place. Right on the water, everthing about the ATLANTICA was perfect.
Beautiful decor, excellent menu, and as we found out later, fine food. What
keeps it from getting 5-stars is that when we entered, without reservations, we
had to eat in the very-beautiful pub area, as opposed to the "fine
dining" area(which has a separate, much more pricey, menu.) Smoking is
allowed in this area, and we did encounter a smell of smoking as we entered the
room, but not as we were dining. Definitely worth the short drive(20 miles)
over from Boston.(4-stars) RESTAURANT BRICCO- As much as I hated to see "Vado
Pazzo" close (I loved their variety of risottos,) Restaurant Bricco is a
welcome addition to the dozens of excellent restaurants in the already-crowded
North End. Taking fresh
Italian ingredients, and preparing them in a way that is often called "the
California style" chef Bill Bradley, fresh from the Napa Valley, turns
traditional Italian dishes into works of art The interior design of Bricco is
by Adam Tihany, and some of the presentations look as though he designed THEM
as well..Don't look for your usual red sauce pastas here; instead what you'll
find will be surprising and wonderful. Do save room for a dessert created by
pastry chef Kristen Gitierrez; you won't be disappointed. (4 1/2-stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- GOLDEN TEMPLE For those of
you who know how much I dislike Chinese food and Chinese restaurants in
general, it'll come as a surprise to you(as it did to me) how much I enjoyed
the Golden Temple in Brookline. Maybe it was because of the excellent company,
or maybe it was that terrific Frozen Banana Daiquiri, but everything seemed to
be quite sophisticated and high-quality. The decor of the restaurant is
elaborate, bordering on Vegas glitzy, and so this helps to make the diner feel
confident that what's coming out of the kitchen is what you've ordered rather
than the usual "mystery food." This may be a false sense of confidence,
but everything was, in fact, delicious and prepared to perfection. For an
appetizer I had Scallion Pancakes and my entree was Szechuan Shrimp with
peppers, carrots, celery, and onions over rice.(Very hot and spicy!) One of my
friends had Crab Rangoon as an appetizer and this was the best dish on the
table. The only dessert available was fortune cookies(!) Just as I was thinking
that the clientele was very classy , I noticed an idiot eating with his
baseball cap on. OK, so I have certain pet peeves. Who doesn't? (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- CLAREMONT CAFE On a warm
summer night, when you're looking for a great meal in an outdoor setting, where
there's good people-watching, in a colorful neighborhood, Boston offers so many
choices. You can either head to the North End, the Faneuil Hall area, the South
End, the Harvard Square area, the Waterfront, Newbury Street, etc. We went to
the South End with its majestic brick townhouses and the constant parade of
"colorful" people, and trendy restaurants. The Clarefront Cafe, with
its award-winning Sunday Brunch, has been slowly becoming a great dinner place.
I'd been hearing so many good things about it that I thought that we'd give it
a try. The menu is Meditteranean with a South American touch(tapas.) For my
appetizer I chose an Eggplant, Arugula, and Marinated Mozzarella Terrine and
Green Risotto(with Spinach, Arugula, Basil, Tomato and Corn) as my entree.
Dessert was a Chocolate Brownie Parfait. We had a delicious Sangria to accompany
our meal. Food and presentation were excellent, but service left much to be
desired. I had to ask for the parmesan to put on the Risotto, and the busboy
was a stealth busboy, sneaking up on us like a cat. Once, when I turned to make
a gesture, I slammed into him knocking over part of the dish that he was
serving to me! It's a good thing that we were sitting outside, and the lettuce
just fell on the pavement like Autumn leaves! Of course, it was HIS fault. When
he brought the check, he forgot to include the bill to be signed!!! (4-Stars) A DAY AT
THE BEACH and a RESTAURANT REVIEW-"THE
RED PARROT" at NANTASKET BEACH When two
friends of mine called to ask me if I wanted to go to the beach, I put aside my
plans for the afternoon and evening and grabbed my blanket and sunblock...the
weather was perfect. We drove out to Nantasket Beach in Hull, and spent some
time relaxing on this huge Atlantic Ocean beach. When we all got hungry, we
left the beach and walked along the beachfront street, checking out the various
foodstands, clubs and restaurants, until we found the perfect place. What
attracted us to The Red Parrot was its size, its huge second-floor deck for
drinking/dining, and its view of the ocean. The menu was eclectic...it included
EVERYTHING! We had drinks and then I had a plate of Pasta Primavera. The food
was good, but not exceptional, and the service was comical(our waitress didn't
know what a pepper-mill was!)but everything came together...perfect weather, a
spectacular view of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean at sunset, good drinks and
food, and most importantly, good conversation with wonderful friends. A perfect
afternoon and evening. (4-Stars for
the restaurant) (5-Stars+ for the day!!!) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "KINGFISH HALL" Chef/Owner
Todd English, who presides over "Olives," (which many people consider
to be Boston's finest restaurant,) as well as his three up-scale bistros called
"Figs"(in Boston, Chestnut Hill, and Wellesley,) has now created a
seafood restaurant to add to his empire. Previously, when friends came to town
and wanted my recommendations for a place to get "the best seafood in
town," I would always say "Legal's"(Legal Sea Foods,) but Todd
English has just upped-the-ante! "Kingfish Hall," in the touristy
Market at Faneuil Hall is as good as it gets. If you've been to Faneuil Hall
and are expecting the usual granite/brick walled, wood-beamed ceiling decor...
forget it. David Rockwell and Adam Chihuly have created a sea-world fantasy of
copper, gold-leaf, patterned cloth, colored glass, and water-walls! Better than
Jaspar White's "Summer Shack", it rivals Legal's as being the best in
town...and that really means something in Boston. Chef English takes the usual
seafood menu and turns it upside down using spices, wines, vegetables, fruit
garnishes and sauces, to create culinary wonders. He's a genius and the
resulting meal is worth a trip to Boston. My appetizer was an Endive and
Asparagus Salad with Crab Meat and Mustard Vinaigrette. My entree was Grilled
Halibut with Eggplant, Ratatouille, Feta Cheese and Fig Garnish. Dessert was
Vanilla Chocolate Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce. English himself was in the
restaurant tonight working the room, and when he got to our table, after
chatting up the model business with my friends who are models, he told us that
he's planning to open an "Olives" in Union Square in New York in
November. When he left the table, we all said the same thing..."he's
spreading himself too thin!" Let's hope not. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "MOTHER ANNA'S" Those of you
who live in Boston might be wondering why I never got around to eating at this
restaurant that's been in the North End for over 35 years. Maybe I just had a
premonition that it would be as bad as it turned out to be. Actually, the food
wasn't bad...just ordinary. However, I'm sure that you've all had the
experience of eating in a restaurant where the food was blah, and the room
appeared to be an afterthought, but the overall dining experience was excellent
because of your choice of dinner guest. That was the case last night. In spite
of the ordinary food, I had a fine time because of my dinner companion, a fine
bottle of Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc, and a fun, ditzy waitress. We shared
a plain Antipasto as an appetizer, and I had Gorgonzola Tortellini with
Pan-fried Mushrooms and Artichoke Hearts as an entree. We shared Spumoni and
Tiramisu(ugh!) for dessert. The bread was delicious. With over a hundred
restaurants to chose from in the North End, and most of them in the very- good-
to- outstanding category, don't waste your night-out at Mother Anna's. (2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- THE BACK BAY "FIRE AND
ICE" If you've
been to the "Fire and Ice" restaurant in Harvard Square in Cambridge,
then you pretty much know what to expect of this new, larger, more yuppy branch
in the Back Bay in Boston. The concept remains the same: after you've been
seated you go up to different stations, where you select one-inch chunks of
various meats and fish(steak, lamb, veal, pork, turkey, scallops, shark,
shrimp, lobster etc.) Then, you add vegetables, noodles, and one of a dozen or
so sauces. Once you've created your entree "bowl," you take it up to
the large central grill, where everything is grilled for you and then brought
to your table. While you're waiting, you can go to the salad station and fill
up on the salads of the evening. You can keep going back for more, until you're
ready to explode. Your dish is as good, or as bad, as what you've created
yourself! It's all lots of fun if you have a good group...and we did. (3 1/2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "ERNESTO'S" This
review is for pizza lovers everywhere. Last night,we went over to the North
End, and discovered a little hole in the wall on Salem Street(probably the ONLY
place that serves Sicilian pizza in the North End.) This was a lucky discovery,
because the Sicilian pizza at Ernesto's is easily the best Sicilian pizza in
Boston, and probably the best Sicilian pizza that I've had ANYWHERE. The
Neapolitan(round)pizza looked delicious too, with lots of toppings available(ricotta
and pesto;roasted peppers and goat cheese,etc.) This is a real find; we'll be
going back THERE often. Unfortunately, they don't deliver. (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW: TARANTA As often as
restaurants come and go in the North End, they always seem to get better. Last
year's brand-new "Lodo" is now this year's brand-new
"Taranta." The cuisine is "cucina meridionale" which
translates out to anything South of Naples! Lodo had excellent food, but the
service was laughable. Our waitress notified us, "I'm a little slow wit
youse because I'm under medication!!!" At Taranta, EVERYTHING is
excellent. The decor remains unchanged on all three floors, except for large
prints of Sicily and Calabria. All of the windows are still open to the street;
a charming look. The food is first rate, as is the presentation, and especially
the service. My friend and I shared an unusually generous Antipasto, and then I
had a fine Fusilli with Goat Cheese, Artichokes, and Eggplant. Because there
was a feast on in the streets, we left our dessert for outside at one of the
many stands. We met friends, wandered through the streets to the sounds of Al
Martino who was singing live at the central bandstand. (If you remember him,
you're as old as I am. He was the singer in "The Godfather," who
became a star when Don Corleone had the horse's head cut off and put in the
producer's bed!) But, I digress. Dessert was homemade cannolis stuffed with the
freshest of ricotta creams. Delicious! (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Caliterra" The striking
new restaurant in Boston's Financial District, weds the best of Tuscan food
classics, with the cooking styles of Northern California. The result is often
quite wonderful. Fresh Italian food products prepared and garnished with lots of
fresh fruits, like pears, apples and especially figs, raspberries and
blueberries. Caliterra in the new Wyndam Hotel is stunning in its decor,
matching that of the hotel, with its Art Deco murals of agricultural village
scenes and ceilinged frescoes and terrazzo floors...Mission Style meets WPA Art
Deco! Service is impeccable and enjoyable, and the presentation is excellent.
Our appetizers consisted of Eggplant Rollatini with Spinach, and Tomato Confit
and Pan Seared Scallops with Vidalia Onions, Goat Cheese, Zucchini and Figs. We
shared a Goat Cheese and Arugula Salad with Pine Nuts and more Figs. Entrees
were, Cappellini with Pomodoro and Basil, and Rock Shrimp with Sun-dried
Tomatoes, Mascarpone Cheese and Basil. The excellent desserts were Chocolate Bread
Pudding with Chocolate Ice Cream, and a fine Cheese Tray...with more figs!. We
chose a very in-your-face Sardinian White Wine to accompany the meal.
Delicious! (5-Stars) Nick
RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Remington's"
(CLOSED) If you're
going to the Colonial Theater in Boston and you don't feel like walking far;
you don't want to eat very much; and you don't want to spend a fortune, then
hop right next door to Remington's. In a pub-like atmosphere, the food is fine,
but not very imaginative, the wine list is OK, and you'll have a hard time
spending more than $25! We shared a large plate of nachos with jalapenos(get
the picture?) and then I had Maryland Crab Cakes with French Fries. My friend
had Beef Barley Soup and then Chicken Kiev with Rice Pilaf. A decent glass of
Pinot Grigio made it all seem much better than it actually was. (3-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Atara" In the place
formerly occupied by the once chic(now defunct) "Uva," is the new
bistro and wine bar, "Atara." Beuautiful in decor, with an eclectic
American menu, this place should do very well. Three of us enjoyed everything
that we ordered, and the service was attentive. But the bread was stale! My
appetizer was Artichoke and Goat Cheese Dip with Pita, and my entree was Veal
Meatloaf with Broccoli Rabe and Garlic Mashed Potatoes. My wine was a Pinot
Blanc. Sometimes a bathroom will tell you a great deal about a restaurant and
those at "Atara" were beautifully designed, and very clean. When I
start to describe the bathrooms in my restaurant review, it probably shows a
lack of enthusiasm for something. Unfortunately I can't put my finger on what
was bothering me about this lovely place. It wasn't the company; my friends who
were dining with me were fine company. Could it have been the stale bread? (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Hazel's Country
Kitchen" If you're
taking a train out of Boston's Back Bay Station and you feel like a sandwich or
an omelette, then you might want to cross the street to this new little
restaurant and sidewalk cafe. Nothing is really out of the ordinary on the
menu, but it certainly beats having to eat your meal on an Amtrak train! (2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Chili's" (at Copley Place) Believe it or
not, Bostonians, this IS my first visit to this centrally-located(in Copley
Place)popular hang-out. I haven't been missing much! It's strictly generic
American/Mexican food(quesadillas, fajitas,etc.,) not very well prepared.
Everything tasted the same. Service is a joke. No need to return to this one. (1-Star) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "LIMONCELLO" It was just a
year ago, that a man from Somerville, Mass.(my old neighborhood) bought a $5
scratch ticket from the Lottery , and ended up winning a million dollars. His
dream was to open a restaurant in the North End, and "Limoncello" is
the fulfillment of that dream. Isn't that a nice story? Luckily, he was able to
find an excellent chef, and the end result is a wonderful new restaurant in the
already over crowded North End. The food is excellent, as is the very personalized
service and presentation. Many of the dishes are spiced up with the Italian
cordial Limoncello, a delicious liqueur. As an appetizer, I had Seared Scallops
with Limoncello and Baby Arugula. My entree was Massetto Pasta with Tomatoes,
Prosciutto, and Crema di Limoncello, and Dessert was Tartufo di Limoncello. See
what I mean? We had a delicious Vernaccia di San Gimignano(getting ready for
the Tuscany trip!)as our wine, and we ended up guzzling a few glasses of the
cordial, Limoncello. It's delicious! If this review sounds a little bit loopy,
it's because I'm completely buzzed from the wine and the Limoncello!!! Our
Roman waitress Cartuscia, was a definite addition to the overall enjoyment of
the evening!!! (5-Stars) I
think! Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Laurel" Yet another
fine restaurant in the South End of Boston. This one in the space formerly
occupied by The Blue Wave. The menu is American eclectic, and the decor is
borderline lavish. We were in a bit of a rush, as we were heading off to see
the musical "Copacabana," but no fear, we had plenty of time to enjoy
an excellent three course dinner, washed down with a fine full-bodied
Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon. My appetizer was the usual Mozzarella,
Tomatoes, and Arugula with Balsamic Vinegar. My friend Mike had Fried Calamari.
My entree was Risotto with Mushrooms and Beets. Mike had Shreaded Veal with
Garlic Mashed Potatoes. We shared an excellent English Trifle with Espresso and
Sambuca. (4-Stars) Nick Flash's is not
a restaurant...it's a cocktail lounge. The kind of neighborhood hang-out where
suits take their secretaries after work, with the hope of "scoring."
We were misled into thinking that this new eatery in the Back Bay WAS a
restaurant. So, we settled in, and ordered four of the nine tapas on the
very-limited food menu. There were three of us, and we had the following tapas:
A selection of artichoke and potato ragout, whole roasted garlic, roasted red
peppers, frittata, grilled red onions and smoked eggplant(called "The
Magnificent seven!;") the French brie on doughy brioche toast with an herb
salad and pickled shallots, and a creamy tomato soup dip; Asian fish and chips
with a wasabi tartar sauce; and shittake mushroom ravioli in a celery root puree.
As entrees, two of us ordered the seared sea scallops with pumpkin risotto, and
the third ordered chicken breast and some sort of dumplings. We washed it all
down with a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and one of Sauvignon Blanc...both from
Chile. The wine was fine! (2-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "STARS on
HUNTINGTON" (CLOSED) If you're in
Boston visiting Northeastern University, or either of the two nearby
museums(Museum of Fine Arts or the Gardner,) and you're looking for a good
place to have breakfast, lunch, or dinner, look no further. Now that Stars has
opened, you don't have to resort to either the expensive end of the
neighborhood places(Ambrosia, Brasserie Jo, the Fine Arts,) or the cheap
end(Dunkin' Donuts, Au Bon Pain.) Stars has a wholesome menu of American
comfort foods(Meat Loaf, Swordfish, Pulled Chicken and Penne) and a
surprisingly good wine list(heavy on the French and American wines.) I had a
good Caesar Salad, and then, the Maple-glazed Meat Loaf. My friend Rob had the
Caesar Salad as well, and then the Pulled Chicken and Penne. Big portions; both
delicious. For dessert, we both had Chocolate Chip Cookie Ice Cream
Sandwich...obscene! We had a fine bottle of Tuscan Vernaccia to accompany the
meal. The decor and the service were both excellent. (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW-"LA BUONA VITA" I've been
trying to get back to Somerville for months now to try the new restaurant
"Buona Vita," so when we passed this restaurant in Arlington (the
next town over) called "La Buona Vita," I just assumed that it was
the same place and that the Boston Globe reviewer had made a mistake on the
location. So we went in and had as good a meal as any that I've had in the
North End. Everything was excellent including the service. It's a small
unpretentious "mamma-papa" store. Mama and son wait on the tables,
while papa Angelo does the cooking...and his cooking is incredible. P.S. It WAS
the wrong restaurant...the other one IS in Somerville. But don't let that or
the store-like appearance of the place stop you. As I said before, the food and
service are exceptionally good. If you make the trip out to Arlington, don't
miss Lakota Bakery. They have the best cookies that I've had ANYWHERE!!! (5-Stars) for
both! Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW-"Franklin Cafe" Arguably, the
most difficult restaurant to get into in the South End of Boston, is the
unbelievably popular Franklin Cafe. Having been told that the secret to getting
in("no reservations accepted,"), is to get there promptly at 5:30pm
when it opens, we did, and it worked, although we got the next to the last
table. Is it worth the hassle? Absolutely. It's a charming and romantic
candle-lit room, with a knowledgeable, attentive and attractive wait-staff, and
most importantly, excellent food. As an appetizer, I had Ribbolita...the famous
bread, potato and bean soup of Tuscany. My entree was Turkey Meat Loaf with Fig
Gravy and Spiced Mashed Potatoes. Our wine was a delicious, hearty Cabernet
Sauvignon. The Cafe has no dessert, so we walked down the street to the Garden
of Eden where we had really fine mousse and camomille tea. The South End is
really turning into a gourmets paradise, with almost as many restaurants as the
Italian North End. The difference here is that the restaurants serve a VARIETY
of ethnic cuisines...from French to Vietnamese. Most are excellent. (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW-"BACCO" Just what
Boston's North End needs...another Italian restaurant! Fortunately, the food at
Bacco, is as good as anything you'll get anywhere else in the North End.
Excellent appetizers, pastas, and entrees. What I didn't like, was the fact
that, in spite of its choice location at the crossroads of Salem and Parmenter
Streets, this two-storied restaurant closes off its main dining room upstairs
from Sunday to Thursday, leaving diners, like us, to eat in the bar area, where
people can smoke. Luckily, there was no one in the bar, so we didn't have to
deal with the smoke element. As I said before, the food was excellent, but
there are no desserts, forcing you to go to one of the North End's many
pastry/cafes to end off your meal. We went to the Modern, the best in the area. (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Prezza" Without
meaning to do so, I'm afraid that many of my restaurant reviews sound boringly similar,
unless the restaurants are outstandingly bad, or outstandingly good. Prezza
certainly falls into the latter category. This new North End restaurant
features the foods of the Abruzzi region of Italy, and it stands apart from its
neighbors in both its look, its sounds, and its tastes. Looks: the decor is
elegantly minimalist (an oxymoron?) in shades of tan and deep brown, with
mahogany wood accents and tastefully framed black and white photographs of
Italian scenes on the walls. Sounds: the music of a female cabaret singer
singing the more obscure(but beautiful) songs of Gershwin, Arlen, Porter, etc.
comes out of the sound system (no Andrea Bocelli here!) Tastes: Ah, the tastes!
At our table, the appetizers ranged from Straciatella with escarole, egg,.
pecorino cheese and meatballs(mine,) to Wood grilled squid and octopus with
braised white beans and toasted parsley, and Spicy Mussels in a tomato-fennel
stew over chorizo polenta. Our entrees were Pumpkin tortelli tossed with brown
butter and sage; Roasted Duck with crispy risotto cake stuffed with gorgonzola
and pears and sauternes glaze. We all had the same dessert...Banana Ice Cream
and almond gratin torte in a grappa and fig sauce. Our wine was a fine
Sangiovese. The service was excellent. Cost: about $70 person. (5-stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Buona Vita" What a
difference between last night's restaurant, "Prezza," and tonight's
restaurant, "Buona Vita." The only thing that they have in common is
the fact that both of the owners come from the Abruzzi region of Italy. But
there the similarity ends. Buona Vita is a small store-front place in
Somerville, that looks more like a sub shop than a fine dining establishment.
Decor is pleasant, but definitely not of the linen and china variety. Service
is, at best, well-intentioned. Which brings us to the food, and here's where
Buona Vita earns its growing reputation. Mamma Lidia DiPietrantonio does all
the cooking, and everything is fresh and homemade and comes in huge portions. I
haven't tasted such delicious Arancini (rise balls stuffed with meat and
mozzarella) outside of Brooklyn! All of the red-sauce dishes that we had were
huge and delicious. My Manicotti Fra Diavolo was HOT!!! They don't have a
liquor license so there was no wine. It's sort of like "The Little Engine
That Could." Trying SOOOOO hard! I hope that the students at Tufts
discover it, and that it fills up all of its 19 seats every night. (3-stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Centro" With the
North End, the South End and Somerville, inundated with restaurants, where else
is the Boston restaurateur to go except for the adventurous environment of a
neighborhood like Central Square in Cambridge, with its Third World grittiness?
Centro will probably usher in a whole batch of chic new upscale restaurants in
the area...it is just that good. Chef/owner Rene Michelena calls it a
trattoria. I would call it the best new Italian restaurant to open in
Boston/Cambridge this year! With understated, but beautiful decor, excellent,
knowledgeable wait-staff, and best of all, some of the finest Italian alta
cucina in town, Centro is destined for glory. My friend Joy and I ordered the
Broccoli rabe salad with lemon and wheat beans, for our Appetizer. (This came
with Tuscan bread spread with anchovy paste.) Her Entree was a giant Pork Chop
stuffed with Escarole with Cauliflower gratin. I went for the Garlic Gnocchi
with Roasted Mozzarella and Marinara Sauce. My dessert was a Lemon pound cake
with Thyme-scented Mascarpone. Joy had Toasted "Ravioli" stuffed with
figs, apricots, and oranges. Our wine was a delicious Banfi from Tuscany. This
one's a find! (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- SOUTHEND GALLERIA (CLOSED) What's in a
name? What used to be "La Bettola" one of my favoritre South End
restaurants, has now become the ultra-chic SouthEnd Galleria...same management,
different name and chef. We went to the SouthEnd Galleria on the last night of
the "Heart of Puglia in Boston" festival, when we were able to take
advantage of some of the incredible dishes created by visiting Pugliese chef
Salvatore Bufi For an appetizer I had the Veal Meatballs with Caramelized
Vegetables, and my friend Ben and I shared a Salad of Greens with Mustard
Vinaigrette. For an entree, I had the Risotto with Shallots; Ben had the Veal
Chop with Triple-Cheese Polenta. My Dessert was Tuscan Gelati with Biscotti.
Ben had the Almond Mousse with Gelati and Chocolate Sauce. Our wine was a
Chianti Classico Riserva. Rita, the maitress d'/owner was intrigued by, either
my bald head or my charming personality(!!!) In any case, she plied us with
programs of the Puglia Festival, Menus, and complimentary Limoncellos at the
bar! Needless to say, I was quite intoxicated by the flattery as well as the
alcohol! Did I mention that the ambience is as charming as it was when it was
"La Bettola?" I'm a sucker for the look of "walls as
ruins." The place is overbooked, so make your reservations early...and
carefully! I hope that this review makes sense, because I'm wasted!! (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SALAMANDER" (CLOSED) When
chef/owner Stan Frankenthaler moved his Salamander from its former location in
Cambridge on the banks of the Charles, to the stunning new Trinity Place condos
on Copley Square, he brought with him his Asian-Fusion menu, and a reputation
for impeccable service. The menu still consists of dishes with Asian
ingredients prepared in a European/American way.The decor however, is a
comtemporary take on an Asian motif, with lots of walnut woods in the floors
and chairs, and copper and zinc on the tables. Very beautiful, in a sort of
Hollywood/Asian way! The food is still as good as ever, and the service is even
better. My appetizer was an Albacore Tuna Salad with Marinated Fancy Radishes
and Cucumbers all Topped with Sashimi of Scallops. My entree was Potato Stuffed
Samosas served with Braised Escarole, Mango Chutney and Puree of Lentils. My
dessert was Sorbet of Passion Fruit, Mango, and Orange Champagne. Our wine was
a Verdiccio from Tuscany. I can't quite tell you why I'm not giving it 5-Stars,
except to say that everything except the service, fell just a little bit short
of the mark. I'm probably being unfair, because I left my umbrella there, and
had to go all the way back to get it! So, I'm punishing the restaurant!!! (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "PIGALLE" Pigalle bills
itself as a "bistro" but that's certainly a misnomer. What it is is a
very up-scale Parisian-style French restaurant(read,"expensive")
where presentation takes precedence over portion size. This new
theater-district restaurant, in the place formerly occupied by the fine Greek
restaurant Omonia, is done up to look like a men's club in Britain; all dark
woods and fine china, etc. The food is generally excellent, although most of
the portions could hardly be called anything more than attractive! I had a Tuna
Nicoise as an appetizer, and it was nothing more than a few chunks of tuna, two
hard-boiled eggs and some delicious bacon. I just made that sound awful, but in
fact, it was delicious. It just wasn't the large bowl of Tuna Nicoise that I
expected. My entree was Seared Scallops with "something wonderful" in
the middle(!) Again, it was delicious. For dessert I had Profiteroles. They
were excellent. Our wine was a fruity Beaujolais (not "Nouveau" but
excellent nevertheless.) The meal was excellent. The service was expert. The
decor was understated. A fine addition to the sparse theater-district dining
scene. (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT/SHOW
REVIEW- THE GOSPEL BRUNCH AT THE
"HOUSE OF BLUES" (CLOSED) I can't
believe that it's taken me so long to get over to the Gospel Brunch at the
House of Blues in Cambridge. I've had dinner there, but never the Gospel
Brunch. In any case, it's great fun, if the gospel group performing is a good
one, and ours was(Jessica Hampton and the Heavenly Angels!) The male singer
Phil Green, and the back-up band were also very good. They got the people on
their feet, waving their arms and screaming "Halleleulah." What more
could you want? How about a great Cajun Brunch? There's plenty of good
down-home food(fried chicken, roasted potatoes, corn bread, collard greens,
cajun frittata, carved roast beef, scrambled eggs, catfish, bread pudding,
french toast, watermelon, etc.) It's all-you-can-eat so bring a big appetite.
We did, and got stuffed! (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Lucca" Have the
restaurants of Boston's Italian North End always been divided into two distinct
categories, or have I just noticed that fact since I started writing these
reviews? In any case, there are the dozens of restaurants that have been around
"forever," and then there are those that seem to change management
yearly. Prior to Christmas, "Lucca" was "Il Bacio!" Il
Bacio was a fine restaurant with a laid-back atmosphere and a noisy bar area.
Lucca is a fine restaurant with an upscale atmosphere and a subdued
reduced-in-size bar area. It's a distinct improvement. If you're looking for a
more trattoria/bistro experience, sit on the street level, with its
ceiling-to-floor windows open to the street...(perfect for a warm summer
night.) Downstairs, the atmosphere is elegant and European with rough granite
walls and tapestries. The food and service(with waiters dressed in "South
Beach black") at both levels is excellent. At our table we had Tuscan Bean
Soup with Vegetables and Bruschetta, and Potato and Wild Mushroom Lasagna as
appetizers, Pappardelle and Ground Veal Bolognese with Red Wine and Smoked
Tomatoes, and Bisteca Fiorentina as entrees, and Flourless Chocolate Cake with
Maple-Walnut Gelato and Cappuccino as desserts. Our wine was one of Francis
Ford Coppola's Napa Valley Cabernet Francs. A lively new addition to the North
End scene; let's hope that it stays around long enough to join the
"been-around-forever" category! (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "McCormick &
Schmick's" Boston
probably has more seafood restaurants, per capita, than any other city in the
world...and now there's another one! What, you might ask, does the
Portland-based "McCormick and Schmick's" have, that others don't
have? Just about all of our seafood restaurants serve fish right out of the
water, so what does this one have to offer that's different? For one, its six
or so rooms are lavishly decorated in an Art Deco/Mission/Frank Lloyd Wright
style that even tops Todd English's "Kingfish Hall." Secondly, the seafood
menu is one of the most extensive that I've ever seen, and the freshness of the
fish is attested to by the fact that the menu is printed twice a day, to keep
up with the catch. Thirdly, the portions are huge; easily enough to be shared
by two normal people. Last, but not least by any means, the wait-staff is
polite, nice, and knowledgable. I had Coquille St.Jacques for an appetizer (it
was large enough to be an entree,) Parmesan-crusted Dover Sole with Lemon Caper
Butter, Asparagus Spears, Carrots, and Garlic Mashed Potatos as my entree (it
was large enough for two entrees,) and Strawberry Shortcake for dessert (easily
enough for two.) Our wine was a Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay; not MY choice, but
it was very good. The restaurant is in Boston's theater district, in the Park
Plaza "triangle" formed by Maggiano's, Fleming's Steak House, and
McCormick and Schmick's....."The Cholesterol Triangle!" (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
RECAP-"Appetito" After the
theater, we revisited an old "friend" in the South End...the
restaurant Appetito. Since this is not my first time eating there, and I've
already written a review of this long-established South End landmark, I can
only say that it's better than ever, possibly due to the new chef in the
kitchen, and the expanded bar-area. Service and food are even better than
before. Give it a return shot and see what I'm talking about. (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Piattini" In the
very-desirable Newbury Street location recently vacated by the French bistro
"Chanterelle," we now have the lovely Italian restaurant
"Piattini." When it comes to ordering the appetizers or
"piattini"(little plates!) this restaurant takes its name literally.
Although all of the piattini are delicious, we had to order five of them and
one salad for three of us (tapas style ). My appetizer was Tortellini with
Spinach and Goat Cheese. The others were Crabcakes, and Pepper Stuffed with
Spinach and Mozzarella. I chose a Risotto with Spring Vegetables and Parmesan
as my entree. One of my friends selected Lobster Ravioli; the other Veal
Scallopini with Potatoes. Everything was delicious. For dessert we had Milanese
Profiteroles and Tiramisu. The excellent wine was an Anselmi from the Veneto.
Although service and decor were as good as could be desired (I loved the copper-topped
tables,) I'm withholding the fifth star because the bread, albeit Italian,
tasted like white Tastee Bread! Even a fairly good, although somewhat bland
olive oil, couldn't make it taste like it should have tasted. Give me a good
Tuscan bread anyday. A good meal made much better than it actually was, by the
excellent company. Who said good friends can't make a good meal taste like an
excellent meal? (4-Star) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "Fleming's Steak
House" First of all
you should know that I much prefer a plate of pasta, or a good fish, to red
meat of any kind. Having said that, follow me now back to "the Cholesterol
Triangle" at Park Plaza, for a visit to the well-respected (albeit a chain
restaurant) steak house called Fleming's. The decor is men's-club-wood, with
leather banquettes and well-spaced tables. Not unattractive, but generic.
Appetizers come in family-sized portions; we had Spinach and Artichoke Fondue
with Spiced Pita Chips, and Mozzarrella and Tomato Salad. Our entrees were
8oz.- cuts of Filet Mignon with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Sauteed Mushrooms.
For dessert I had a Mixed Berry Cobbler With Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Our wine
was a Francis Coppola Chardonnay. Although everything that we ordered tasted
good, it wasn't exceptional...just good. We came away from the table feeling so
bloated, that even a one-mile walk home didn't relieve the over-stuffed
feeling. In fact, as I'm writing this review, if I weren't in such good health,
I'd probably have a heart attack right now, and fall over dead on my computer
keys!!! (3-1/2 Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Oleana" It's always a
pleasure, and usually a surprise, when a restaurant that's been over-hyped and
critically praised, lives up to that praise; Oleanna does that, and more. What
is basically just two stores and a garden in Cambridge, has been magically
transformed into a beautifully designed dining room, bar and romantic garden,
in a style reminiscent of a Meditteranean villa, with traces of the Middle East
thrown in. More importantly however, the service, and especially the food,
match the beautiful decor. I went with Sue and Joy, two of my friends from the
gym, and on a weekday night, the place was packed. Our appetizers were Fried
Mussels & Peppers with Turkish Tarator Sauce, Grilled Asparagus with Lentil
Vinaigrette & Fried Goat Cheese, and Ricotta & Bread Dumplings with
Porcini and Braised Lettuce. My entree was Broiled Baby Sole with Raki, Crab
& Eggplant Souffle. The dessert, which had to be ordered at the beginning
of the meal, was Orange Cardemon Gelato with warm Chocolate Hazelnut Torte. My
wine was a Pinot Grigio from Venice. Although the portions were not large, we
were stuffed at the end of the meal! Reservations are a must at any time of the
week, and the menu changes fairly often. Because of the beauty of the rooms and
garden, as well as the delicious food, I would recommend saving this place for
a special occasion. It WILL be special. (5-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Tu Y Yo"(You and Me) This cheerful
little "fonda" of a Mexican cafe, (in my old neighborhood in
Somerville,) is modeled on the homestyle restaurants established in 18th
Century Mexico, and is as colorful as a zocalo in a small village in any
province of this wonderful country. The food featured on the menu is not of the
"Tex-Mex" variety, but is more authentic...there are no chips and
salsa on the table! Our appetizers were "Sopes"(deep fried corn flour
dough topped with beans, anejo cheese, onions, and zuccini.) My entree was
Camarones Mocambo(jumbo grilled shrimp in bay leaves, garlic, and guajillo
peppers...hot, hot, hot!!!) These were served with a thick (and delicious)
Black Bean Soup, and Mexican Spiced Rice. Our dessert was a wonderful homemade
Flan, made by the 85-year-old mother of the owner's sister-in-law!!! We washed
down all of these HOT dishes with an unusual White Sangria with Oranges. A
nice, offbeat change of pace...but don't make a habit of it, if you still have
your gall bladder!!! (3-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "MARGO BISTRO" On a beautiful
late Spring evening, a stroll along the waterfront in Boston, is a perfect way
to work up an appetite for dinner at one of the many restaurants along the
shore. After drinks outdoors at the Intrigue Cafe, we went to Margo Bistro, the
Men's Club- style bistro in the new Harborside Inn. Elegant in a simple way,
with its mahogany wood panels, and original granite columns (from its days as a
waterfront warehouse) and hanging Italian lamps, this is a beautiful addition
to the waterfront dining scene.The menu is extensive and eclectic.For an
appetizer, I had Warm Salad of Sea Scallops and Jerusalem Artichokes with a
Lemon-Butter Vinaigrette, Radicchio, and Lamb's Lettuce; for an entree,
Asparagus and Porcini Mushroom Ravioli in a Light Sweet Pea Cream with Truffle
and Parmigiano, and for dessert, a delicious Blueberry Brioche Bread Pudding
with Creme l'Anglaise and Blueberry Coulis. Our wine was a nice Beaujolais.
Everything was presented beautifully, and was cooked perfectly. Service was
friendly but unobtrusive. The only negative was that the bread was frozen, so
some was too cold, and some too hot! After a day of shopping or sightseeing at
Faneuil Hall, the Waterfront, or the Aquarium, this would be a perfect place to
treat yourself to a well-deserved, and elegant dinner. Don't bring the kids!!! (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT REVIEW-
"Tapeo" (on Newbury Street in Boston) "Tapas" are hors d'oeuvres or appetizers that are
served in restaurants all over Spain, called tapas bars. These tapas bars have
become very trendy in places like Columbus Avenue in New York, and now Newbury
Street in Boston. Sister to the well-established and popular Dali in
Somerville, Tapeo is authentic in its decor and Sevillana music. When ordering,
the diner can either order a single appetizer and entree as my friend Chris did
(Shrimp, Chicken, Lobster and Littlenecks in a saffron, tomato, nut, wine and
chocolate sauce as his entree,) or cover the table with lots of little plates
of single-dish appetizers and entrees, as my friend Mike and I did. My
appetizers(tapas frias) were Anchovies and Black Olives on Tomato Toast, and
Garlic Potatoes. My entrees(tapas calientes) were Chicken Croquettes, Baked
Goat Cheese with Tomato & Basil, and Artichokes in Saffron Batter. We had a
couple of pitchers of Sangria to accompany the tapas. Although the company was
excellent and we had lots of fun, all of the food began to taste the same after
a while. Too much sangria, perhaps? We walked down the block for some Oreo ice
cream at Emack & Bolio's for dessert...and lots of people watching (eye
candy) on Newbury Street! (3-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT REVIEW- "Eclipse" Chef/Owner Rob La Grassa's new restaurant Eclipse has an
incredible history...one that could only be found in Boston. In 1848 it was the
site of Washington Hall, home to the Boston Whig Club, where Abraham Lincoln
gave impassioned speeches condemning slavery. Several years later the building
became the Boston Aquarial Gardens, the first public aquarium in the world!
Today it it is a beautiful restaurant with walls of soft yellow and eggplant
accents. The banquetts are covered in purple and gold, and pewter chandeliers
hang above the tables. Chef La Grassa is the third generation of chefs in his
family and his food and presentation show the excellence of this experience. I
had a perfect Caesar Salad as an appetizer, and as my entree, a Dover Sole in
Lemon Butter with Basmatti Rice and Seasonal Vegetables. My dessert was a Panna
Cotta with Fresh Sliced Strawberries. Our wine was a delicious fruity Pinot
Grigio. I'm withholding one star, because the service was spotty,(we had to ask
for more bread and water, and there was no ice bucket for our wine) even though
we were the only people in the restaurant! (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "The Dancing Lobster" When you come
from a seafood town like Boston, it's hard to find a better seafood restaurant
than what we have at home. Aside from the picturesque location, on an upper
deck overlooking the beach and the harbor, there was nothing terribly unusual about
this place. My Caesar Salad and Crab Cakes were good, or was it just the two
Mudslides that I had with them? (3-Stars) It's not hard
to kill a few hours in between lunch and dinner, but you do tend to gawk and
eavesdrop a lot on the incredible colorful scene all around you. We walked
around Commercial Street (the beachfront main street of P-town, and stopped
every now and then to sit and stare! Then it was time for dinner. RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Front Street" This one WAS a
surprise. Although I had heard a lot about Front Street, I never expected the
level of excellence that we found. We walked on a garden path, and down a few
steps, into a below-street-level beautifully designed romantic hideaway, where
we were seated and given menus that could have been prepared in a fine Boston
or New York restaurant...Meditteranean high cuisine at its finest. It's a good
thing that we were told to get reservations a week in advance, because the
place was packed by 6:30pm. My appetizer was a delicious Eggplant Involtini and
my entree was an Asparagus Tortelloni; I couldn't finish it! Peach and
Raspberry Sorbet for dessert. Our wine was a nice Orvieto. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Mantra" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BERKSHIRE GRILL" at
the Prudential Center RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "LES ZYGOMATES" DINNER/NIGHTCLUB
REVIEW- "THE RACK" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "TODD
ENGLISH'S RUSTIC KITCHEN" (not TODD ENGLISH'S anymore) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Porcini's" MEZZE BISTRO
& BAR- This upscale Meditteranean restaurant
serves gourmet international dishes in a setting that can't be beat. We ate out
on a terrace above the beautiful Green River. I had a Watercress & Arugula
Nicoise Salad with Goat Cheese Croutons as my appetizer, and Black Pepper
Ravioli with Roasted Garlic, Grape Tomatoes, and Guajillo Broth. My dessert was
a Chocolate Souffle Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. (5-Stars) MAIN STREET CAFE- As good as the
Mezze was, this was even better! If you didn't know the high quality of the
fine food here in Williamstown, you would have been shocked at the excellence
of our dishes. I had one of the best Mozzarella in Carroza that I've ever had
as my appetizer, and Charcoal Grilled Sea Scallops with Fresh Tomatoes over
Linguini, as my appetizer. Sorbet of Plum, Grapefruit, and Peach for dessert.
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "TORCH" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- TODD ENGLISH'S "BONFIRE" How many
restaurants can Todd English open before he starts to lose his high standards?
Judging from the latest one, an endless number! "Bonfire" is Todd
English's steak house with a South American flair. Occupying a cavernous space
in the Park Plaza Hotel in Boston's Theatre District, the restaurant is a
carnivores delight...and adventurous diners won't be disappointed either.
Although the dress code is "casually elegant," the decor is
SUMPTUOUSLY elegant, with its burgundy vaulted ceilings and walls, wrought-iron
and glass chandeliers, and high-backed tapestry chairs. My appetizer was a
Mexican-style Caesar salad. My entree was a 14oz Salmon Steak with Gorgonzola
Sauce. Dessert was a White Chocolate Chunk Gingerbread Pudding with Ginger Ice
Cream and Gingerbread Men. Our wine was an Argentinian White. If your city has
a branch of Todd English's "Olives" or "Figs," skip them,
because as with the original Filene's Basement, they don't transfer well. I've
eaten at the "Olives" in New York and in Vegas, and although they're
fine restaurants, they don't compare to the original up here. Wait until your
next trip to Boston, and then try any of his five restaurants:
"Olives"(Meditteranean,) "Figs"(pizzeria/bistro,)
"Kingfish Hall" (seafood,) "Rustic Kitchen" (country
French,) and lastly, "Bonfire" ( South American steakhouse.) He's
become a gustatory DisneyWorld! (5 - Stars) Nick RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "LOCKE-OBER" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Sister Sorel" Wouldn't it
be nice if every upscale, expensive restaurant did what Tremont 647 and Sister
Sorel did? Read on. Last year, owners Andy and Gretchen Husbands knocked
through a wall of their famous South End restaurant Tremont 647, and into a
former art gallery to open the new cafe, "Sister Sorel"...named for Andy
Husband's older sister...and since then it's been packed every night. The two
restaurants share the same kitchen and the same chef, only Sister Sorel offers
fewer meals (only six entrees each night,) and it's casual and reasonably
priced. It only seats 20 people, the decor is brick-wall-candlelit -Spartan,
and the service is sporadic, but oh, the food is so good; comfort food
(burgers, chicken, shrimps,) cooked in a gourmet-French style. I had a
delicious Goat Cheese Fondue for my appetizer, an Eggplant and Ricotta Pizzetta
as my entree, and a Banana Boston Cream Pie for my dessert. The breads in the
bread-basket were especially delicious. Our wines were a Pinot Gris and a
Sauvignon St. Bris. (4-Stars) Nick RESTAURANT REVIEW-
"The Village Fish" "Back in
the day" I used to drive out to Brookline at least once a month to what
was then a hole in the wall restaurant called "The Village Catch," to
take friends out for delicious seafood, prepared in an Italian way. Now, almost
20 years after my last visit there, I took a group of young friends back to a
greatly expanded, but basically the same, restaurant, now called "The
Village Fish." I'm happy to report that it's still the same excellent
place! There's less emphasis now on pastas than there used to be, and more on
the seafood. For an appetizer, I shared a large order of Calamari Fritte and
Caesar Salad with Anchovies. One of my friends ordered Clams al la Marinara and
I dipped into his delicious sauce. The fresh breads are excellent. For an
entree, I had one of the best Scrods that I've ever had. It's all in the
freshness of the fish, and the seasoning of the breadcrumbs! Our desserts were
Chocolate and Vanilla Tartuffi. Our wine was a Shiraz from Australia. If you do
go to this fine place, don't forget to ask for Pete, the waiter. He's a friend
of mine, and one of the main reasons that we went out to Brookline for seafood! (4 1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW-"Bob the Chef's" People who
live in the Boston area will find it hard to believe that I've never been to
Bob the Chef''s...that 50-year-old bastion of traditional southern cooking in
the heart of Roxbury...Boston's Harlem. Well, it was worth the wait .Everything
about this place says two words, "class" and "homemade."
The ambience is that of a jazz cafe, which it becomes later on in the evening.
The wait staff is knowledgeable and friendly. But, regulars come here for one
thing...the food. This is where you come for barbecued ribs, glorified chicken,
homemade meatloaf, black-eyed peas, collard greens, etc. I had the Homemade
Meatloaf, with Baked Macaroni and Cheese and Homemade Mashed Potatoes as my
entree. It was heaven...and I'm a meatloaf "freak." My dessert was
Gramma's Apple Pie a la Mode. Our wine was an Australian Shiraz. Even though we
didn't order appetizers (we saw that the entree platters were huge,) the four
of us left the table stuffed. All of this, and the place is very reasonable. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Abe & Louie's" Because I
knew that "Abe & Louie's" was part of a national chain of steak
houses, I didn't give it much thought...or a visit, until now. Boston has so
many excellent steak houses (e.g., "Grill 23 and Bar," "Todd
English's Bonfire," "Capitol Grille," "Morton's,"
"The Palm," etc.) that its easy for another place for carnivores, to
get lost in the shuffle. That's what happened to "Fleming's Steak
House"...a good, but uninteresting place. However, "Abe &
Louie's" is a different story. This restaurant can hold its own with the
best of them. It's a truly fine place for prime cuts of meat. The decor is
elegant and beautiful. It has a very "men's club" look, with dark
wood paneling, bronze chandeliers, leather chairs and faux Remington statuary.
The service is first-rate. The menu is quite extensive, and the food is as good
as it gets for a steak house. My appetizer was Beefsteak Tomatoes with Blue
Cheese and Vidalia Onions. My entree was Shrimp and Scallop Louie. I know, I
know, "who goes to a steakhouse for seafood?" I DID sample the house
specialty Bone-in Filet Mignon, and the Filet au Poivre...both were excellent.
Our wine was an excellent Sangiovese. Be warned however, it IS quite expensive.
More in the "Morton's" category than the "Flemings"
category! (5-stars) Troquet
(slang for a small wine cafe,) although new on the Boston restaurant scene (it
opened in October,) had gourmets and wine connoisseurs salivating with great
expectations, because of the impeccable credentials of its owners and its chef.
Owners Chris and Diane Campbell formerly owned "Uva," the ultra-sophisticated
wine palace in Brighton, and Chef Scott Hebert came from Veritas, the equally
famous wine restaurant in New York. So, with this background, it's not
surprising that the emphasis is on the pairing of the 44 wines with the
classically French-prepared food choices on the menu. My appetizer was a Seared
Sea Scallop with Piquille Peppers, Cod and Potatoes and Parsley Puree. My
entree was Potato Gnocchi with Braised Mushrooms, Oven Dried Grapes and Black
Truffle Oil.We ordered the cheese tray, because the Campbells were always known
for the variety of their " fabulous cheeses." They didn't disappoint!
I tasted a liquidy Soumatain. Incredible! Normally I would have the cheese in
place of dessert, but renowned pastry chef Natalia Andalo is "in
residence" at "Troquet," so we went for the dessert as well. Her
Chocolate Fondant Cake with Coffee Ice Cream was sinful. Our wine was a Domaine
du Caillou, Cote du Rhone. Boston's Theater District now has a new restaurant
to match the renaissance of its theater scene. Bon chance to both! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "blu" (
in the L.A. Sports Club) When the L.A.
Sports Club opened in Boston last year, a "well-placed" friend gave
me a membership. I went to this marble-and-brass palace just once, because I
detested the poseurs and voyeurs who spent a small fortune to "work
out" there. So it was with great reluctance that I decided to dine at the
restaurant, "blu," in this Sports Club. Because it's owned by Jody
Adams and Michela Larson ("Rialto") who originally trained under the
legendary Julia Child, I expected the food to be well-cooked, and
well-presented. Chef Dante de Magistris excels in both areas. The eclectic menu
includes not only high-gourmet items but comfort foods as well. (One wouldn't
expect the latter in this Peter Niemitz-designed minimalist black, white, and
glass environment. Huge two-story high windows overlook the Downtown Crossing
area of Boston. EVERYTHING is color-coordinated, even the salt and
pepper-shakers!) Now to the food. My appetizer was a "Cremini &
Zucchini:"an Arugula, Zucchini, Mushroom and Reggiano-Parmigiano Salad. My
entree was Roast Gratin Maine Grey Sole with Olive Oil Potatoes and Pesto.
Dessert was a Chestnut Bread Pudding with Jicama Ice Cream. Our wine was a
delicious Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. We also ordered the Cheese Tray for the
table. Everything was excellent...but very pricey! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE OAK ROOM AT
THE PLAZA" The main
dining room at the stately Fairmont Copley Plaza used to be known as the Cafe
Plaza, but now it's called the Oak Room. Under any name, it's still the most
beautiful dining room/restaurant in all of Boston. The Edwardian decor of rich
oak woods, high carved ceilings, and tapestried banquettes and curtains, makes
for an atmosphere that simply can't be matched anywhere else in town. The
service was always a bit sketchy (and still is,) but the food could never be
faulted. The emphasis in the newly re-opened (and renamed) Oak Room has
switched to prime-aged steaks and chops. In fact Boston Magazine has voted it
the Best Steak House in Boston. Nevertheless, I chose Stuffed and Baked Shrimp
and Scallops as my entree. My appetizer was a Grilled Eggplant, Buffalo
Mozzarella and Tomato Tart, followed by a Caesar Salad. For dessert, I had a
delicious Boston Cream Pie with White Chocolate Shavings. Our wine was a
Orvieto Classico. Oh, and yes, my friends said that their Prime Ribs of Beef
were excellent. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "LA BELLA VISTA" La Bella Vista
is your typical, mediocre, red-sauce Italian, with nothing on the menu to
distinguish it from a million other places just like this all over the country.
But this is the North End of Boston after all, and one expects better. The
service was delivered with a frown, and the decor was enough to keep the makers
of plastic artificial flowers in business for years. My appetizer of Pasta e
Fagioli wasn't as good as what Progresso puts in their cans, and my entree of
Ziti all' Arrabiata was only slightly better. The Pinot Grigio (which was
overpriced,) made everything taste much better than it really was. The best
thing about this meal was that I was eating it in the company of two wonderful
friends, who were kind enough to invite me to dinner. (1-Star) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "Parish Cafe" The Parish
Cafe is one of those Back Bay eating establishments/institutions that is
dependent on the good weather for business because of its beautiful sidewalk
cafe on Boylston Street. I suspect that there are some people who even go there
just to be seen, rather than for the wonderful sandwiches served there. Let me
reassure you that we went for the sandwiches. Each sandwich has been created by
a Boston celebrity chef (Julia Child, Lydia Shire, Todd English, Jody Adams, etc.)
and bears the distinct trademarks of the individual chef. Although Todd
English' sandwich sounded intriguing, I opted for Vinicio Paoli's (Toscana
restaurant) Buffalo Mozzarella, Tomato, and Arugula, Focaccia Sandwich, on a
Bed of White Beans and Herb Vinaigrette. It was absolutely delicious. The fact
that the cafe was very crowded may have accounted for the service being
sluggish. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "The
Cheesecake Factory" (at the Prudential Center) Anyone who
knows me, knows how much I distrust the word "diversity" whether in
group dynamics, or in the cuisine of a restaurant, whose menu consists of a
too-wide variety of items such as steaks, seafood, pasta, tacos and
quesadillas, and Vietnamese summer rolls! "Bring the whole gang, and each
member can eat a food from a different country." I seem to have just
described the fare at The Cheesecake Factory, a branch of which has just opened
a block away from me, below the new bamboo-garden at the Prudential Center. In
spite of my preference for restaurants where the chefs limit themselves to a
specific cuisine, the food sampled at our table was very good. My appetizer was
a (huge) Caesar salad. My entree was Penne with Eggplant, Peppers, Pine nuts,
Kalamata Olives and Sun-Dried Tomatoes (ordered as a test!) My dessert, of
course, was a cheesecake: "the Original."(very, very creamy.) Our
wine was a Sauvignon Blanc. The decor was typical Cheesecake Factory...faux
Egyptian! In fact, the Boston Lyric Opera could probably stage the entire first
act of Verdi's "Aida" in the rear dining room. Just a warning to the
thrifty: in spite of the cutesy, frivolous menu, the prices are quite serious.
All in all, however, it was quite an enjoyable dining experience.....thanks in
large part, to my guests. (3 1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE BEACON HILL
BISTRO" The Beacon
Hill Hotel is the kind of small hotel that one would find on the Left Bank in
Paris, in the 5th or 6th Arrondisement, and its restaurant, the Beacon Hill
Bistro, would be perfectly at home in either of those districts. Raised
mahogany paneling, banquette seating, mosaic tile flooring, etched glass,
discrete mirrors and a large fireplace, help to create a refined and
comfortable bistro environment on Charles Street in Beacon Hill. Chef Al Soto
(formerly of La Grenouille and Bouley,) has created a menu of understated
elegance that matches the ambience. My appetizer was a Zucchini Salad with
Chevre, Arugula, and Mimolette. My entree was a Strozzopretti Pasta with
English Peas, Tomatoes, and Truffles. My dessert was a Chocolate Mousse Torte.
The wine that we ordered was a Cabernet Sauvignon. Our waiter was everything
that a waiter should be, and more. All in all, it was like dining in Paris
without the danger of terrorists. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "HENRIETTA'S TABLE" The Charles
Hotel in Cambridge is lucky enough to have two fine restaurants. Its premier
restaurant, of course, is Jody Adams 5-Star "Rialto." But its second
restaurant, "Henrietta's Table," has nothing to be ashamed of.
Stepping in off the second-floor lobby, you enter an atmosphere of a New
England General Store, with food products spilling off the shelves of antique
sideboards, cupboards, and buffets. There are olive oils, jams, mustards,
candies, and fresh fruits, etc. On a beautiful Spring day, as today was, the
entire room is open to the tables set outdoors on the terrace, (called
Henrietta's Porch!) We went for a "power brunch," and the food
certainly packed a wallop. I had an appetizer of Field Greens Vinaigrette, and
my entree was an Asparagus and Provolone Omelette with Red Bliss Potatoes.
Service was first-rate. No dessert, thank you. I wonder if it's as good for
dinner. (Although we did end our day at the bar there, enjoying a Strawberry
Banana Smoothie as the cool breezes flowed in from the Charles River.) (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "TREMONT 647" Tremont 647
is one of those 5-Star restaurants in the South End that caters to a flamboyant
and bohemian clientele at its "pajama brunch," and a rather upscale
crowd in the evening. Having dined there years ago and enjoyed the evening meal
immensely, I decided to try the Sunday brunch. First off, yes, people do
actually come there wearing what appear to be their pajamas, and the entire
wait-staff does the same. But in spite of the funky dress, the food is taken
very seriously. I had "Two Stinky Cheeses" as an appetizer;
(basically an exotic cheese tray with toasted garlic breads.) For my entree I
had Scrambled Eggs with New Bliss Potatoes and Fruit Salad. My drink was a
Mimosa; I used to like them. Still an excellent restaurant...for dinner , or
for brunch. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "75 CHESTNUT" Nestled on
the flats of Beacon Hill, just off Londonesque Charles Street, is one of the
most elegant and romantic fine-dining spots in all of Boston. Open only 4
years, this charming restaurant has already developed a word-of-mouth
reputation as being one of the best all-around dining experiences in town. From
the street, there's nothing but a black canopy and two bow windows to mark the
entrance. But once you enter the darkened interior, design, class, style and
ambience announce that you've entered a special place. Service is professional
and abundant; the menu is excellent; and the cooking and presentation of the
food couldn't be bettered. For starters, I had Marinated Smoked Salmon with
Cucumber Dill Salad. My salad was a Caesar with White Anchovies. My entree was
Divers Sea Scallops and Shrimp with Sweet Pea Ravioli in a Plum Tomato Vodka
Sauce. For dessert we had Chocolate Bread Pudding with French Vanilla Ice Cream
and Strawberries. Our wine was a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. If you're in
the mood for 5-Star Contemporary American Cuisine served in style, in a
beautiful, romantic setting, this is your place. But make sure that you've got
enough of a balance on your credit card. This is not Burger King! (5-Stars) BOSTON'S
TWENTY BEST RESTAURANTS People have
often asked me why my web-site doesn't include reviews of some of the best
restaurants in Boston (or New York for that matter.) The simple explanation is
that I dined in them years ago, BEFORE I started this crazy hobby of reviewing
things. So allow me to list what, in my opinion, are the Twenty Best
Restaurants in Boston. They're in no special order. BAR
REVIEW- "AQUA" Boston's
hottest new watering hole is too crowded, too noisy, and too pretentious.
Dozens of people were clamoring to get in; we were clamoring to get out! (2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SPIRE" Dramatic
elegance; that's what "Spire" is all about. From the Philippe
Starck-like white and black design of this contemporary restaurant and bar, to
the excellence of chef Jeffrey Everts cooking and the food's presentation, to
the Rosenthal china on which it's served, to the thoroughly professional and
knowledgeable wait-staff that serves it. Dramatic elegance. Nine Zero is the
latest of the many luxury hotels that are popping up all over town, and up a
flight of dazzling bright stairs on the second-floor of the hotel is
"Spire," the hotel's restaurant. Once you're settled into your padded
white seats, walk around and take a look at the place; it's a masterpiece of
modern design, from its black bamboo hardwood floors, to the blue-curtained
tall windows overlooking the Old Granary Burying Ground, to the dazzling
restrooms which invite you to linger longer than you should! The room's only
color is in beautiful floral and fruit arrangements in the entry and bar areas,
and in the glass art-work on the walls. Oh yes, the food. My appetizer was a
Tomato, Goat Cheese and Spinach Salad. An amuse-bouche was a Cold Green-Pea and
Truffle Soup. My entree was a Sea Snapper with Orange Slices, Sliced Potatoes
and Balsamic Reduction. For dessert, we chose the Warm Chocolate Cake, with
Cherry Mascarpone Ice Cream. Another amuse-bouche consisted of Six Homemade
Candies. Our wine was a delicious Pouilly-Fume. We didn't want to leave. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE VAULT" Is it
possible for the service at a restaurant to be so excellent that it overshadows
even beautifully prepared and presented food? That was the case last night at
"The Vault." Our waitress (even the word sounds too insignificant for
this professional) was as good as it gets. Was it those beautiful eyes or her
self-assurance? In any case, to the restaurant itself. Chef Rene Michelena,
formerly of La Bettola in the South End, and Centro in Cambridge, has, with his
partner Brian O'Neill created "The Vault" in the financial district,
and turned it into a happening place. The ambience is that of a wood-paneled
and heavily curtained bar, and our table in front of the fireplace in the rear
put us far enough away from the live jazz combo, to enjoy it. My appetizer was
a perfectly prepared Caesar Salad. My entree was Pan-Seared Scallops over Corn
Risotta with Peeled Tomatoes. I selected the Cheese Tray for dessert. Our wine
was a fine Domaine du Traillol French red. A fine dining experience, but why
didn't we get that waitress' name? (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "LE
CALYPSO" (at Nantasket Beach in Hull) Perched high
on a rocky cliff, overlooking the entire crescent of Nantasket Beach and the
Atlantic Ocean, sits the beautiful and charming new French restaurant Le
Calypso. To the side of the attractive white restaurant is a large garden,
filled with tables with umbrellas, and sharing the same incredible view as the
restaurant and the open-air deck above. Even if the food were dreadful (it's
not,) this would be a perfectly romantic place to spend a hot summer evening.
As it was, we were there today, on a Sunday for lunch. The menu is filled with
the dishes of the Brittany, Normandy and Provence areas of France.
Unfortunately, although my Salade Nicoise was delicious, it was not the famous
salad of Nice. The ingredients in this salad were tomatoes, zucchini, peppers,
anchovies, hard-boiled egg, olives, and red lettuce. What was left out was the
main ingredient of a true Salade Nicoise...tuna! Our drinks were Strawberry
Daiquiris. I just can't wait to go back on a hot night, to have dinner in the
torch-lit garden and watch the waves crashing on the beach below. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "33" Nestled at
the end of Stanhope Street in the South End, with a hedge-enclosed front patio
that makes it look like one of those "tucked-into-an-alleyway"
restaurants that are found in every European city, is the trendy new
restaurant/lounge/cigar bar called "33." With a striking interior
decor that makes it look as though Ian Schrager redesigned a Faneuil Hall
brick-and-wood place, the look is one of relaxed chic. The walls are exposed
brick; the ceiling is sculptured slats of polished wood, but the most striking
feature of the room is the long double bar that runs the length of the entire
room, and is covered in panels of glass that change colors throughout the
night. Down a flight of lighted glass stairs is the mercifully closed-off
cigar-bar (cough!) and the very stylish restrooms. Chef Charles Draghi has
created a novel menu (and cuisine.) One side of the menu consists of French
dishes, and the other side is Italian. This follows through to the extensive
wine list. My appetizer (from the Italian side,) was a Bruschetta of Tomato,
Buffalo Mozzarella, and Basil on two large slabs of Tuscan Bread. From the
French side, I chose my entree of A Dozen Escargots in Garlic Butter. My
dessert was an Orange/Mint Sorbet with Nectarine Ice-Cream. Our wine was a
Vernaccia di San Gimignano (delicious.) Right now, the crowd is an unfortunate
mix of Eurotrash and Brookline. Wait a few weeks until the normal people start
going! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "VIA MATTA" Because
"Via Matta" has taken the place formerly occupied by one of my
favorite Italian restaurants in Boston, Lydia Shire's fine "Pignoli,"
I was prepared to dislike the new restaurant before I even set foot in it. That
feeling went right out the window when I stepped into "Via Matta."
The neighborhood outside is quite upscale, with the restaurant wedged into the
space between the Four Seasons and the Park Plaza hotels. Its patio is
atmospheric with white tables, umbrellas, and tiny lights in the trees. This
atmosphere is carried into the restaurant, whose ambience is quite beautiful. I
just found out that the new owners are the owners (and former chef) of the
still-trendy "Radius." That explains the presence of all of the
beautiful people who filled the place last night. Everything about "Via
Matta" is first class... from its look, to the impeccable service, to the
presentation and preparation of the "alta cucina" dishes on its
Florentine-leaning menu. My appetizer was a mouth-watering Buffalo Mozzarella
with Yellow Pepper Mostarda. (The bread was some of the most delicious Tuscan
bread that I've ever had outside of Italy.) My entree was a Wood Grilled Salmon
with Zucchini and Capers. Dessert was Three Traditional Semi-Freddi (Gelati):
Notella, Praline, and Chocolate Crunch. Once again, our wine was a perfect
Vernaccia di San Gimignano. I take back what I said at the beginning of this
review. "Via Matta" far outshines "Pignoli" in every way.
But make sure that you bring lots of money! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "CARMEN" The latest
addition to the bustling North End dining scene, is so cozy and intimate, that
it turns away more people than it lets in. There are only 30 seats...so make
your reservations early. Nestled away in charming North Square, just two doors
down from Paul Revere's house, "Carmen" looks like your typical
mama/papa neighborhood restaurant, and in many ways it is. It's casual,
informal and unpretentious in decor. But wait until you take a look at the menu
that chef Bill Bradley has whipped up. Formerly of the wonderful
"Bricco," just around the corner, (and the Napa Valley before that,)
Bradley is creating dishes that sound exciting on paper, look beautiful on the
plate, and taste like heaven! Our appetizers were Tiny Plates of Crostini with
Pesto, Sundried Tomatos, and White Beans with Garlic; Marinated Olives, and
Roasted Peppers with Mozzarella and Basil. My entree was Roasted Penne en
Papillotte, with Ligurian Meatballs, Mascarpone Cheese and Tomato Sauce. No
dessert; too stuffed! My wine was a Montepulciano from Tuscany. Our eyes were
bigger than our stomachs tonight! (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "ARIRANG HOUSE" If you're in
Boston's Back Bay/Fenway area, and the question is: "where do I go to get
an inexpensive all-you-can-eat buffet of delicious Japanese food?" then
the answer has to be Arirang House. Just down the block and across the street
from where I live, is this clean, atmospheric, authentic Japanese restaurant,
where the charming and helpful proprietors have set out an extensive buffet of
a wide variety of Japanese foods, ranging from soups and rice, through seafood,
beef, pork, and chicken to accompanying vegetables, potatoes, noodles, and
finally to cold salads and fruit slices. Everything is fresh, and presented
appetizingly. When you've eaten to the point of excess (!) and the bill is presented,
you'll be shocked to see that it comes to $8.50, including tip! Now, that's a
deal. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "CAFE UMBRA" What happens
when a city tears down the ugly elevated train tracks that used to darken the
inner city streets below...just two blocks from Boston's most fashionable
neighborhood, the South End? In a word, gentrification. The gays move in, the
street gets widened into a beautiful new boulevard, a new "T"
line...the Silver Line is installed, the Cathedral of the Holy Cross emerges
from the shadows as Boston's major Catholic church, and restaurants sprout up
from one end of Washington Street to another. The newest, and arguably the best
of these, is the chic Caffe Umbra, in the shadow ("umbra") of the
magnificent cathedral. Chef/owner Laura Brennan, formerly the sous chef at
Boston's finest restaurant, L'Espalier, has created a beautiful ambience and a
menu to match it. The brick walls are nice and through big windows in the
front, there's a good view across the street of the imposing Cathedral. Our
waiter was extremely friendly and knowledgeable. As far as the food goes...my
appetizer was Stacked Mozzarella and Tri-Colored Tomatoes, with Fresh Figs and
Arugula. My entree was Fresh Herbed Pappardelle with Zucchini Basil Pesto, Mascarpone
and Green Beans. My dessert was Two Tuscan Inspired Sorbets: Peach Prosecco and
Blackberry Sangiovese...with Milk Chocolate "Cigars." Our wine
was a Red Burgundy from Provence. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "FRASER
GARDEN COURT TERRACE" (at the Museum of Fine Arts) (CLOSED) Picture a
stone terrace, with a ceiling so high that it doesn't seem to be there. On this
terrace are scattered beautifully set tables, and off to the side, a pianist is
playing Gershwin. Facing the terrace is a magnificent European garden, complete
with fountains, statuary, well-manicured lawns and hedges. When it gets dark,
and the statues and fountains are spot-lit, the effect is magical...you've been
transported to Europe, and you know that "you're not in Kansas anymore."
This is the new Fraser Garden Court Terrace restaurant at Boston's Museum of
Fine Arts. The menu is small, and changes every evening. My appetizer was an
incredibly delicious, and filling, Smoked Salmon Pizzetta with Arugula, Chevre,
and Heirloom Tomatoes. My entree was an order of Pan Seared Scallops over Wild
Lettuce, Shaved Fennel, Asparagus, and Cherry Tomatoes. All entrees come with a
bowl of beautifully prepared Japanese Noodles lightly tossed with Small
Tomatoes. Our dessert was the Dessert Sampler, with one of each of the
following: A Small Profiterole with Chocolate Sauce, a Banana Ice Cream Cone, a
Strawberry Tart, a Flourless Chocolate Cake, and I forgot the fifth dessert!
Our wine was a full-bodied Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Although the Fine Arts restaurant
is still the premiere restaurant at the Museum, the magnificent Fraser Garden
Court Terrace would be MY choice when you're dining on a summer evening. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "PIZZA PIE-ER"
(formerly "Dixie Kitchen" on Mass. Ave.) I had heard
that the new pizzeria in town is as good as our best neighborhood pizza joints
(Canastaro's, Newbury Pizza, and Sorento's.) It's not! (2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "GALLIA" Back again to
the newly refurbished and gentrified Washington Street, this time to check out
"Gallia" on Lower Washington overlooking Blackstone Square. With its
corner location on the Square, the owner was wise enough to feature big windows
so that the outside view becomes an integral part of the mustardy-yellow,
green,and purple decoration of this simple restaurant. Because the chef is
Stefano Zimei, formerly of The Federalist and Harvest, we were expecting
exceptional French-based cuisine...and we got it. My appetizer was Potato
Gnocchi with Asparagus and Pancetta Sauce. My entree was Black Pearl Salmon
with Spinach, Picholine Olives and Fennel Hearts. The chef sent over an
amuse-bouche of Yellowfin Ahi with Anchovy Aioli. We saved room for desserts
because the pastry chef is Alex Ricciuti who used to create those unusual
concoctions over at Todd English's "Kingfish Hall." He does the same
here. I had a sinful Milk Chocolate Pot du Creme with Star Cookies. Our wine
was a Sangiovese. Before closing this review, I must say a word about the
service. Our waiter was friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful, as was everyone
at the restaurant, including the owner Cindy Eid, who came over several times
to chat. It's her first time as a restaurant owner. She shouldn't have any problems
here! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "NIGHTINGALE" In the case
of some restaurants, they announce their presence by assaulting your nose with
the aromas of their cooking long before you get to the front door. In the case
of "Nightingale" you can SEE it from afar long before you arrive,
because of the bright lime green of its walls showing through the all-glass
front windows. However, once inside, the loud-colored walls covered with large
bold prints become a very pleasant background for two comfortable rooms. The
fine wait-staff takes control as soon as you enter the room, and we were
ushered to a large table for four, even though we were only two people. The
menu is one of those which, although not extensive in nature, is filled with
such wonderful items, that it's hard to choose. But choose we did. My appetizer
was Heirloom Tomatoes with Diced Mozzarella and Arugula. My entree was a
Grilled Cod Loin over Spinach and Olive Brandade with Balsamic Vinegar. My
dessert was a Chocolate Cheesecake. Our wine was a delicious, but potent,
Sangiovese! In a neighborhood already crowded with fine restaurants (the South
End,) "Nightingale" is a welcome addition, not only for its colorful
presence on the block, but because its prices are not in the stratospheric
league of some of its neighbors on the block, such as "Hammersley's
Bistro," "Metropolis," and "Truc." (4 1/2-
Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "TRIO" (CLOSED) Tucked away
in the out-of-the-way "Leather District" down around South Station is
a new place that most people know as a trendy late-night club. But in addition,
it's also a beautiful restaurant served by an inventive chef who's filled with
innovative ideas for exciting dishes. The room has a dramatic look as you enter
and pass a copper-covered bar and proceed into the main dining room with
exposed brick walls and an enormous crystal chandelier. In the corner, is a
candle-filled fireplace. But, we came for the food...and it was wonderful.
Before our appetizers, the chef presented us with an amuse-bouche of Mesclun,
Apple, and Goat Cheese Salad. My appetizer was then a Simple Pizza of
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Buffalo Mozzarella, Torn Basil and Parmesan. Then
another amuse-bouche of Tuna Tartar with Crispy Wonton Chips. My entree was an
Oven-roasted Chilean Sea Bass with Sweet Lobster Risotto. My dessert was a
Coconut Cream Pie. We sampled both the Pinot Grigio and the Cabernet Sauvignon
for our wines. We were sent Flutes of Champagne, complimernts of the chef. I
don't know why. To say that we left completely stuffed would be an
understatement! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "CAFE AT THE
LIBRARY" Last month,
with great fanfare, the multi-million-dollar Mary Baker Eddy Library opened at
the Christian Science Center, just across the street from my apartment. What
did not receive as much publicity as the newly refurbished Mapparium and the
interactive galleries, was the new Cafe at the Library tucked away inside,
beyond the Court of Ideas! So, we decided to try it out for lunch today.
Although beautifully color-coordinated, with Ian Schrager-like furnishings and
marble-floor decorations, the overall effect is attractively sterile and
under-decorated, in spite of the fact that the walls are painted to look like
the inside of the great Pyramid at Giza! I kept thinking that I was in the
lounge of a beautiful airport terminal, waiting for my plane to be announced.
The menu was quite extensive for a luncheon menu, and it featured many autumn
items. My lunch consisted of a Half-Sandwich of Grilled Vegetables with Pesto
Goat Cheese, and a Butternut Squash Soup. We shared a plate of Freshly Baked
Cookies. Everything was delicious and quite filling. The service was polite,
cheerful, and courteous. After all, this IS the Christian Science Center. (3-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- BUKOWSKI'S TAVERN If you know
Bukowski's at all, you probably know it as that weird little beer place perched
over the Mass. Turnpike, where you need about 18 kinds of ID to get in if you
look underage, and where the bar menu features about 100 exotic beers, ales,
and lagers. What most people don't know, is that they also feature a special
every weekday night until 8pm, and that's a very respectable burger or hot dog
for only $1. If you don't add anything to it (cheese, fries, etc. all cost $1
each extra,) you can get away with a dinner of a burger and a large hot dog for
only $2. Hell, that's cheaper than McDonald's...and much tastier. Three of us
had three cheese burgers with fries, three hot dogs, and three drinks, and the
tab was only $21.00. It would have been much cheaper if we had eliminated the
cheese and the fries. But, what the hell...we were splurging! (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE
RITZ-CARLTON DINING ROOM" The venerable
grande dame of Boston hotels, the "old" Ritz-Carlton, has reopened,
after a two-year restoration period, in which it was restored to its former
grandeur. (I never saw it as anything less than grand!) Part of this elaborate
process was to return "the grandest dining room in all of New
England" to its former glory. They've done their job well. Like a
first-class dining room on an old ocean liner, the second floor Dining Room
still overlooks the Public Garden, and has retained those magnificent Waterford
chandeliers and the Cobalt Blue water goblets. The menu has changed slightly
with more of an emphasis on French-Continental cuisine. My appetizer was a
Lobster Caesar Salad followed by the chef's amuse-bouche of a Potato Leek Soup
with Truffles. My entree was a Dover Sole. A before-dessert amuse-bouche of
Creme Caramel was followed by a dessert of Triple Sorbet and Triple Ice Cream
Degustation. Our wine was a Napa Sauvignon Blanc.So, even if you're not having
dinner in the Dining Room, or high tea in the Tea Lounge, drop in to see this
wonderful old place. Its new sister hotel, The Ritz-Carlton on the Common, on
the other side of the Common, is all 21st Century opulence. But, if you're
looking for the 19th Century in all of its elegance and heavy tradition, then
this is the place for you. If you're lucky enough to be staying there, ask for a
room with a wood-burning fireplace. Hell, why not. You only live once! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BRIOCHE at the
BERKELEY" It's always
difficult to have to review a restaurant that's owned by a friend (or a
relative of a friend.) In this case, the relatively new French restaurant
"Brioche," in the town of Wellesley, is owned by the brother of my
friend Antonio. Not to worry...the restaurant is wonderful. On the ground floor
of what appears to be an apartment building on the "main drag" in
Wellesley, one enters, and then, the hurried atmosphere of the
street changes to one of soft music, darkened lights, lowered ceilings, and
tactfully-spaced tables. Paintings-for-sale adorn the walls. We were waited on
by an incredibly efficient and friendly wait-staff. At one time or another
during the meal, we must have met all of them. After all, we were with the
chef/owner's "baby brother." Although it was difficult to chose from
the extensive menu, I selected Shrimp Limoncello as my appetizer, Pan-Seared
Sea Scallops with Lemon Risotto and Asparagus as my entree, and a
Chocolate/Grand Marnier Souffle as my dessert. Our wine was a Veneto Pinot
Grigio. Presentation was superb, and everything was delicious. A welcome
addition to the meager culinary pickings in wealthy Wellesley! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "AZURE" Boston,
America's seafood capital, has a multitude of seafood restaurants, ranging from
the no-frills, inexpensive variety ("Naked Fish,") to the elaborate,
ultra-gourmet, fish-palaces (Todd English's "Kingfish Hall.")
"Azure" definitely falls into the latter category. In the space
formerly occupied by "Anago" in the newly-renovated Lenox Hotel,
"Azure" is simple in its decor, but elaborate in everything else. The
choices on the menu range all over the seafood world, from New England to the
Pacific, with preparation appearing to lean in the French direction. Service is
impeccable. In fact, each of us felt the need to compliment the wait-staff
throughout the meal. After an amuse-bouche of Crab-meat and Mozzarella on a
crispy Crustini, my appetizer was a Salad of Oak-Leaf Lettuce, wrapped in
Cucumber Slices with a delicious Champagne Vinaigrette. My entree was a Roasted
Scottish Salmon over a bed of Mashed White Beans, with Whole Potatoes. My
dessert was a Mixed Sorbet of Chocolate and Coffee Cinnamon. Our wines were a
White Pinot Grigio and a Red Chianti Classico. Old friends from New York, as
well as new friends from Massachusetts pronounced "Azure" an amazing
success. I certainly agree. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "TEATRO" When
chef/owner Jamie Mammano ("Mistral") bought the site formerly
occupied by Barbara Lynch's "Galleria Italiana," he did some research
and discovered that it was originally a synagogue. Knowing how ornamental some
synagogues can be, he decided to remove the former restaurant's dropped ceiling
and, in the process, uncovered the beautiful vaulted painted ceiling, now the
focal point of this trendy new restaurant. If you like to be where "it's
happening," go now while the place is hot. It's wait-staff is young,
attractive, and even more surprisingly, knowledgeable about the food and wine
on the menu. My appetizer was an Arugula Salad with Parmigiano Shavings. My
entree was a Filet of Swordfish with Lemon Butter/Caper Sauce, Fresh Asparagus,
and A Roasted Potato Cake. My dessert was an Assortment of Sorbetti. Our wine
was a delicious Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Although all of the food that I
ordered looked good on the plate, most of it tasted bland and ordinary. The
salad dressing was non-existent (thank goodness for the parmigiano shavings,)
and, although it's virtually impossible to render capers tasteless, the lemon
butter/caper sauce was just that...tasteless. The other food at our table
(Classic Caesar Salads and Steaks) seemed to be met with greater success than
was mine, although our perky waitress was almost proud to announce that
"there are no anchovies in the Classic Caesar Salad," thereby making
it neither "Classic," nor "Caesar!" Oh well, there's always
that beautiful ceiling and, for now, the beautiful people under it! (3-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SUMMER
SHACK-BOSTON" Several years
ago, noted chef and restaurateur Jaspar White, returned from a self-enforced
exile in Europe, and shocked the restaurant world by opening, not a small
gourmet restaurant, but rather, a huge family-style Cape Cod-like barn of a
seafood joint. This now-famous Cambridge landmark proved to be so successful,
that White opened a branch at the Mohegan Sun Casino in Connecticut, and now a
new scaled-down version in the former Cheri Theatre complex. (This former movie
complex has become Kings, an upscale billiards-hall, bowling alley and cocktail
lounge...and seafood restaurant.) This smaller version of the original,
operates differently. Instead of having a waiter or waitress take your order,
you fill out an order form, checking items on a menu. Then you take it up to
the order window, and when your number is called, you pick up your order at the
pick-up window. It's reminiscent of some places on the Cape and out on Long
Island. I prefer to be waited on. (The wait-staff only takes your drinks
order.) All of this makes for a very loud, confusing, and rushed meal. However,
the food is still excellent...gourmet food, served in a fast-food setting. My
appetizer was a Grilled Eggplant and Onions with Feta Cheese and Cherry Tomato
Vinaigrette. My entree was a perfectly Grilled Atlantic Salmon with Fresh
Vegetables, Corn Bread and Mashed Potatoes. We ordered a Napa Valley Pinot
Grigio for the table. (We went somewhere else for our Sorbet/ IceCream
desserts!) A fun place if you're in a very casual mood...VERY casual! (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE ENORMOUS ROOM" It may have
been the before-dinner drinks that we had at my place, or it may have been the restaurant
itself, but whatever caused it, I kept asking myself at dinner, "Are we in
Casablanca or is it Marrakech?" because it sure as hell didn't look like
Cambridge! When you dine at "The Enormous Room" in Cambridge, you're
buying into the notion that you're dining in Morocco with all that entails,
because chef/owner Gary Strack, has recreated the experience of being in one of
the more casual dining rooms at the luxurious Al-Mammounia in Marrakech. Next
door to Central Square's "Central Kitchen ," one enters a door marked
simply with an elephant stenciled on glass, climbs the stairs, and enters a
room with exposed brick walls, on one side of which is a platform covered with
Oriental rugs and large pillows, and on the other side are banquettes and chairs,
clustered around long low tables. Get there early enough to choose the location
that suits you (my suggestion is to go for the corner platform in the rear.) If
you choose the rugs and pillows, kick off your shoes, put them in the cubby
below the platform, and make yourself comfortable. The DJ in the wall behind
you will be playing exotic music all evening. Your food will also be exotic.
There are only two enormous plates on the menu. One consists of skewers of
beef, salmon, chicken, and lamb, over grilled, roasted, marinated vegetables,
with baba ganoush, hummus, olives, falafel, couscous, triangles of phyllo dough
stuffed with spicy ground beef, etc. The other consists of only the vegetables.
Everything is delicious. We ordered both, and devoured them. Our wines were a
Sangiovese and a Pinot Blanc. Get a few good friends together, go early, stay
late....it's an adventure! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "UPSTAIRS ON THE
SQUARE" When Harvard
Square's beloved "Upstairs at the Pudding" was forced to relocate
from its premises in Harvard's historic Hasty Pudding Club Theatre, it moved
across the Square to what was once a prestigious social club, and reinvented
itself as two dramatic dining rooms, each with star chefs. Downstairs, chef
Susan Regis presides over the Monday Club Bar, a restaurant with a club
atmosphere, two fireplaces, and a "non-threatening" gourmet menu.
Upstairs is something completely different. The Soiree Room where we dined, is
an elegant supper club, with hot pink walls and tablecloths, mirrored ceilings,
and lighting sconces that could be art-nouveau objets d'art. As one critic
said, it's "Moulin Rouge" meets "Alice in Wonderland!"
Amanda Lydon is the chef in the Soiree Room and she has done herself proud. Her
menu is eclectic and, judging from what we ordered, the food is beautifully
prepared and presented. My appetizer was an Endive and Artichoke Salad with Red
Wine Cream and Marcona Almonds. My entree was an order of Maine Sea Scallops
with Chorizo, Piquillo Peppers, and Broccoli Rabe. My dessert was Grapefruit
Sorbet with Citrus Salad. I had a delicious Vernaccia di San Gimignano to
accompany my meal, and I wish that I could remember the exotic beer that my
friend Pat had. Service was friendly, intelligent and unobtrusive. In spite of
the fact that the room was filled to overflowing, one of the owners
stopped by to inquire if we were enjoying our meal, as did the maitre d'. All
in all, a beautiful high quality dining experience. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "DAVIO'S" It almost
seems as though there's always been a Davio's in Boston! In reality, owner
Steve DiFilippo opened his first Davio's, the upstairs/downstairs
restaurant/bistro on fashionable Newbury Street, just 18 years ago. Then, in
1990, he opened the Cambridge branch, with its beautiful terrace overlooking
the Charles River. Now, when Paine Furniture moved out of its spacious showroom
on Arlington Street last year, DiFilippo closed down the Newbury Street branch,
and moved into this new space .It was a very smart move. It may not get the
"Euro-trash" foot-traffic from Newbury Street, but it seems to be
drawing a very eclectic crowd...and it has its own parking lot! The huge room
itself is quite elegant, with its soaring ceiling and high fluted columns, its
exposed kitchen filled with sous-chefs, and its beautifully curved mahogany
bar. The "white-linen" atmosphere is conducive to fine dining. From
the minute we walked in, the service was attentive and friendly. Our waiter was
knowledgeable about the "alta-cucina" items on the elaborate pricey
menu, and was quite friendly, even though he appeared to be serving four tables
at once. Now, to the food. In a word, it's perfect. Preparation, presentation,
and taste couldn't be bettered anywhere. My appetizer was a Spinach Salad, with
Wood Roasted Peppers, Portobello Mushroom, Goat Cheese, Garlic, and Olive Oil.
My entree was Pan Roasted Salmon, with Wild Mushroom Risotto, Chives, Smoked
Pepper Oils and Citrus Sauce. My dessert was a Mango, Raspberry, and Lemon
Sorbet with Biscotti.( From my friends dishes, I tasted a perfect Gnocchi, and
a delicious Spaghetti with Shrimps, in an excellent Marinara Sauce.) Our wines
were a Pinot Grigio, and a fine Tuscan Chianti Classico. A very welcome
addition to the downtown restaurant scene. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SAINT" Once upon a
time, there was a fabulously elegant restaurant in Boston called Cafe Budapest.
It's rooms were designed to create the experience of dining in imperial
Hungary. When it closed, old Boston mourned its loss. When it reopened last
year, as the impossible-to-get-in- without-a-connection "Saint," new
Boston said "let's take a look." From the moment you walk down the
flight of stairs onto a lit-from-below with-red-lights foyer, the look says New
York nightclub or South Beach club, but NOT Back Bay Boston. The first room is
an all white martini bar called "Threshold." The second room is aptly
named the "Bordello," and includes the original ornate bar from Cafe
Budapest. The room we dined in is the "Main Room" and it's a modern,
beautifully designed cocktail lounge. If there's a negative about
"Saint," and its probably the only one, it's the fact that you have
to dine on low cocktail tables. There are no dining-height tables anywhere in
"Saint." The chef is the formidable Rene Michelena (formerly of
"La Bettola," "Centro," and "The Vault.") When he
was gracious enough to come to our table and spend some time discussing his
menu and his background, he told us that he was finally at a restaurant where
he had full control over the kitchen and menu offerings. He's certainly done a
fine job with both. My appetizer was a Zucchini and Crab Meatballs with Potato
Gnocchi and Crab Bisque. My entree was a Baby Artichoke Risotto with Tarragon
Pesto and Roasted Pepper Salad. Our dessert was a Tray of Six Desserts
(Chocolate Souffle with Strawberries, Peach Cheesecake with Ginger and Molasses
Crust, Blueberry and Apricot Cobbler, Mango Sorbet, etc.) to be shared. Did I
say that there were only two of us??? Our wine was a delicious Sauvignon Blanc.
Our waiter was extremely friendly and knowledgeable, adding to the fine, but
very pricey, dining experience. A worthy addition to the sophisticated,
elegant, and traditional Back Bay neighborhood. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "EXCELSIOR" When two of
the giants of the Boston dining scene, Lydia Shire ("Biba,"
"Locke-Ober,") and Tim Lynch ("Grill 23 and Bar,") get
together to create a new restaurant, it's not surprising when the result is
nothing less than magnificent. Such is the case with their new venture, "Excelsior."
In the space formerly occupied by Shire's now defunct "Biba," famed
New York restaurant designer Adam Tihany has created a showplace in the
Heritage-on-the-Common, overlooking the Public Garden. The ground floor of this
two-story restaurant, is an open to the street (at least it is this Summer)
dark-wood with red decorative touches, bar and cocktail lounge. The ascent up
to the dining space is dramatic. You can either walk up the large curving
staircase, or, as I would recommend, take the glass elevator which ascends up
through the multi-tiered wine cellar. The room itself, like the lounge below,
is all dark wood with red box-like chandeliers, and red-and-tan artwork on the
walls. The windows down the entire front wall overlook the historic Public
Garden. Although I usually hate being seated at a table along the wall, with
only a foot separating the next tables from ours, our
"table-neighbors" proved to be so charming and friendly, that a minus
became a plus. The rest of the crowd last night consisted of the "Three-P
group," (Prada, Porsche and Plastic-surgeoned!) My appetizer was a
perfectly-dressed Warm Mozzarella and Crushed Artichoke Salad. My entree was a
Charcoaled Wild King Salmon with Steamed Toy Sum. (The best salmon that I've had
in ages, and I've become an expert in salmon lately!) We shared a delicious
Cheese Tray, and we both had the same outrageous dessert...Sour Dough Chocolate
Cake with Vanilla Fromage Blanc Ice Cream and Warm Chocolate Sauce. Our wine
was a perfect Montepulciano Chianti Classico. We got to taste the food that was
ordered by our table-neighbors, Kate and Ethan, as they did ours. (I said they
were friendly!) Everything was cooked to perfection, and presented beautifully.
Did I mention that the service was excellent as well? All in all, as fine a
dining experience as one could hope to have. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "MERITAGE" Noted chef
Daniel Bruce, the mastermind behind one of Boston's premiere Winter events, the
Boston Wine Festival, has taken the Festival's idea of pairing fine wines with
fine foods, and created a magnificent new restaurant in the elegant Boston
Harbor Hotel. Through the hotel's beautiful lobby, up its grand staircase, and
onto the second floor, with its expansive views of the sailing ships and yachts
in Boston Harbor, we arrive at Meritage, designed to look like the primary
restaurant on an expensive cruise ship. Shining hardwood floors covered in
places with thick carpeting; marble, glass and brass fixtures; spider-webs of
lighting that seem to have tumbled right through the ceiling; and bottles of
every kind of wine imaginable, make up the striking contemporary design of
Meritage. The menu is cleverly designed to match each food item with an
appropriate wine...suggested by chef Bruce. In addition, every dish is
available in either a small plate or a large plate...the latter being exactly
twice the size (and price) of the former. The idea is to encourage sampling. My
appetizer was a Black and White Shrimp Cannelloni with Saffron Cream and
Sauteed Spinach. This was paired with a varietal of Pinot Grigio and
Chardonnay. My entree was a Blackberry-glazed Wild Pacific Salmon with Vermont
Fiddleheads and Shiraz Demi Glaze. This was paired with a robust Cabernet
Sauvignon. The chef sent an amuse-bouche of Gazpacho with Truffles. We ordered
the Cheese Tray of Humboldt Fog Goat, Fontina Cow, and Istara Sheep. Our
dessert was a Chocolate Tasting Tray consisting of Dark Chocolate Tart with
Creme-fraiche, a White Chocolate Cheesecake, and a Log of Butter Chocolate
Mousse. All of this was served by an intelligent, attentive, and well-uniformed
wait-staff. A very welcome addition to Boston's Waterfront, soon to be blessed
with the 3-mile-long Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway Park, covering the
infamous "Big Dig!" (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "GREAT BAY" in the new
Hotel Commonwealth It must
have looked good on paper when the proposal was presented to Christopher Myers
and Michael Schlow, the owners and chef of "Radius" and "Via
Matta." Create a luxurious seafood restaurant for the new French
Chateau-like hotel, the Commonwealth, being built on Kenmore Square. After
agreeing to create the new restaurant, things started to fall apart on the
hotel end. First off, when the scaffolding and shrouding (which had been in place
during the entire time of the hotel's construction) was removed, the hotel
looked less like a Chateau in the Loire Valley, than a motel in New Jersey!
Then, Boston University decided to house 60 of its incoming Freshmen in the
Hotel. That doesn't bode well for a hotel that aspires to 5-star status. To
date, the hotel's facade has been "corrected" so that it more closely
resembles a chateau. However, the students are still planning to move in in
September! Now for the restaurant. The restaurant has all of the trappings of
greatness about it: caring and famous owner and chef, understated ambience,
excellent service, and incredibly good seafood chosen from a menu of items
ranging from mainstream to rarities. Everything is there, except the customers!
On a beautiful Saturday night, the restaurant was virtually empty! I was told
that this is the case every night. Nevertheless, I enjoyed a fine meal. My
appetizer was English Pea Soup with Morels, Brandade. My entree was a Line
Caught Swordfish with Porcini, Wilted Arugula, Coriander and Walnut Oil. The
chef sent an amuse-bouche of Barbecue Glazed Prawns. The wine was a Stag's Leap
Cabernet Sauvignon. I ordered the Cheese Tray (Old Chatham Camembert, Putney
Tomme, and Great Hill Bleu.) Delicious. In addition, my dessert was a
Lemon Sorbet with Blood Orange Slices. Send in the customers! This place
deserves a chance. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "IL FIORE" If it's a
warm summer night (and there should still be a few more of those left,) and
you're lucky enough to snag one of the couple of dozen tables on the
roof-garden of this popular new restaurant in the North End, then you're in for
a magical dining experience. Unfortunately, "Il Fiore" doesn't take
reservations for its roof-garden (the only one in the North End,) so it all
depends on how lucky you are when you get there. Go early; it's always very
crowded. We were lucky. We only had to wait 15 minutes for a table up on the
roof-garden. The party of 6 at the next table waited for 2 hours! In any case,
roof-garden or not, this is a fine new addition to the already packed North End
restaurant scene. A 500-seater, it makes its presence felt on Hanover Street,
the North End's "Main Street." Everything is first class, from the
people at the busy maitre d's desk, to the wait-staff, to the presentation and
preparation of the food. My appetizer was a Mozzarella di Bufala. My entree was
a Mustard- Seed-Encrusted Marinated Salmon, under a tower of Spinach and Sliced
Mozzarella. My dessert was a White Mousse Cake. Our wine was a Pinot Grigio.
Add to all of this, good company and you have, as I said before, a perfectly
magical evening. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "CRAIGIE STREET
BISTRO" Chef/owner
Tony Maws' "Craigie Street Bistro" is the equal of any of those
dozens of little bistros that line the streets around the Boule'-Miche' in the
5th and 6th districts on the Left Bank of Paris...only it's more expensive.
It's tucked away on one of those residential streets outside of Harvard Square,
in the basement of an apartment building. Only an awning and a small sign
announce its presence. So you really have to know where you're going to find
it. But, once you're there, what a magnificent dining experience awaits you.
The first thing that you notice, aside from the unpretentious decor, and the
small number of tables, is the incredible knowledge of the wait-staff, as they
begin to suggest wines and recommend dishes, before you've even been seated at
your table! Our waiter was an encyclopedia of fine food. For an appetizer I had
the Sweet Corn Soup with Green Tomato Tartare and Olive Oil Crouton. My entree
was a Red-Chile-Marinated Hangar Steak with Roasted Bone Marrow, Forked
Potatoes, and Pot-Roasted Carrots. My dessert was a Classic Peche Melba. To
accompany our meal we ordered a Mercurey "Vielles Vignes" Burgundy.
The wine was an experience in itself...truly wonderful. I had a taste of the
other dishes at the table...Rabbit and Pancetta Terrine, Scallops with Cockles,
and Veal Cheeks...and everything was first-rate. An incredible dining
experience. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "McDonald's" Believe it
or not, this is the first time that I've ever eaten at a McDonald's restaurant,
anywhere in the world, in my entire life! Therefore, when my friend Patrick invited
me to have lunch at the McDonald's just across the street and down the block
from where I live, I couldn't resist. He was on a mission. I felt like a virgin
on her first date! When we walked in at Noon, what surprised me was the fact
that the place was almost empty. This restaurant is right across the street
from the Berklee College of Music. Don't these weirdos eat fast food? The next
surprise came at the counter when we ordered our meal. The counter
"girls" were Chinese, and they ordered our food in Chinese! Yikes,
where am I? In an attempt to eat a relatively healthy meal (!) I chose to
ignore Pat's suggestion to "go with the Big Mac," and ordered as my
entree the Grilled Chicken Sandwich with Lettuce and Tomato (without
mayonnaise.) It was very tasty. This came with an order of French Fries, which
although delicious (!) tasted as though they had been cooked in hand lotion. My
beverage was a Barg's Root Beer. I think that my meal came to less than what
some people might tip the toilet attendant at the Four Seasons. On the way out,
as the restaurant started to fill up with strange people, Pat said, "It's
a good thing that you live right across the street because you'll probably have
to go to the bathroom in about five minutes." He was right! Thanks for the
experience, Pat. (3-Stars)
Fast Food RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE RED HOUSE" If it
seems a bit petty to withhold a star, simply because the restaurant served a
tasteless Caesar Salad, so be it. One of the perks of being a
"critic!" Actually, if a chef can't throw together a decent Caesar
Salad, complete with Parmigiano and Chopped Anchovies (both missing from ours
tonight,) it says a lot about the kitchen. Everything else about "The Red
House" is in the positive column. Housed in a charming 18th Century cottage
just outside of Harvard Square, this multi-roomed new restaurant, is owned by
the former chef of Giannino's in the Charles Hotel. You enter through a
pub-type area complete with crackling wood in the fireplace, past some private
rooms for dining, and into the rear main dining room...a crowded but intimate
room. After settling into our pillowed corner banquette, we ordered our
wine...a delicious Chianti Riserva...and our meal. After the aforementioned
Caesar Salad as my appetizer, my entree was a Grilled Filet of Salmon with
Ginger Glaze and Long Beans. My dessert was a Key Lime Pie, one of the best
that I've had outside of Florida. Aside from the poorly-prepared Casear Salad,
everything else that we ordered was delicious. The service wasn't noticeable...one
way or the other. All in all, a nice addition to the Harvard Square dining
scene. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "PERDIX" The only
thing wrong with our dining experience last night, was the annoyingly shrill
voice of the blonde Barbie-doll at the corner table, and the three obnoxious
"men" at the next table, who kept stroking each other, emotionally as
well as physically. Oh well, it WAS the South End! "Perdix" has a
convoluted history. Formerly, a hot little restaurant in the ethnically-mixed
Jamaica Plain neighborhood in Boston, it moved into the trendy South End when
the once-successful restaurant "Truc," packed its pots and pans and
fled into the night. With a new paint-job, and some reconstructive work on the
romantic glassed-in greenhouse overlooking the gardens in the back,
"Perdix" opened to rave reviews. These reviews were certainly
justified. Everything about "Perdix" screams CLASS, except some of
the customers. The decor, service, knowledgeable and personable wait-staff,
and the preparation, presentation, and taste of the food were all excellent. As
my appetizer, I had Grilled Figs with Arugula, Prosciutto, Parmesan, and Blood
Orange Vinaigrette. My entree was a Roasted Monkfish, with French Lentils,
Brown Butter Cauliflower and Sweet Garlic Gremolata. My dessert was a Gingered
Apple Cake with Cinnamon Ice Cream. Our wine was an earthy Rubizzo SanGiovese
from Tuscany. Try to get one of the four tables in the greenhouse in the back.
It will make your dining experience at "Perdix" even more memorable. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SKIPJACK'S" If you're
in Boston and craving a lobster, and the tables at Legal Sea Foods in the
"Pru" are booked up for months, then take a walk over to Skipjack's,
just outside of Copley Square. In a setting that's comparable to Legal's, and
with a comparable menu as well, you'll get any kind of seafood, prepared to
your specifications...grilled, broiled, or fried. What's more important, is
that the food will be delicious. There were six of us at dinner, and everyone loved
the food, especially the lobster, which I didn't have. Too much work! My
appetizer was the best Caesar Salad that I've had outside of Mexico, where it
was first created by a chef named Cesar. My entree was a Grilled Atlantic
Salmon in a Soy, Lemon and Dijon Sauce, with Green Beans and Caramelized
Onions. My dessert was a Chocolate Bread Pudding (to die for!) I had a Pinot
Grigio with my meal. Did I mention that the service was first-rate, from a
young waiter who actually understood English? So, add Skipjack's to the
ever-growing list of fine dining establishments serving prime seafood. It's not
just Legal's and No-Name anymore! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "GEORGE-AN
AMERICAN TAVERN" I started
to get a funny feeling, when we walked into this new restaurant (formerly
"Rattlesnake," a popular college hang-out,) and, in spite of some
upgrading of the decor (pictures of various Georges...from Washington to
Steinbrenner, lined the walls of the bar in front ) there was the same college
crowd at the new bar, watching TV screens showing the football and hockey
games, while they guzzled their Pabst Blue Ribbons! We asked to be seated in
the rear of the dining room, far away from the noisy crowd...and then things
continued to go wrong. The menu was so limited, that the sections for burgers
and sandwiches far outnumbered the sections for appetizers, salads, and
entrees. Ten minutes after we settled on our selections, and gave the waitress
our wine order, she came back to the table to tell us that they were out of the
Stuffed Chicken Breast. At 7:30 in the evening? She also asked us if we wanted
the anchovies on our Caesar Salads. When will chef/restaurateurs understand
that this is not an option on a true Caesar Salad? The anchovies must be ground
up into a paste with the worcestershire sauce, lemon juice etc. to coat the
leaves of romaine. Then, she informed us that they couldn't find the manager,
who had the key to the wine cellar. When he was finally found, she apologized,
and told us that we wouldn't have to pay for our appetizers. Which brings me to
the food. My appetizer was the Caesar Salad (with Whole Anchovies on top!) It
was surprisingly good. For my entree, I went with a true "comfort
food," Macaroni and Cheese. Well, this was not the usual orangey Mac &
Cheese that I love, but more like a Macaroni Alfredo, with a white creamy
sauce. It was just alright. One of my friends ordered Spicy Chicken
Fingers for an appetizer, and they were delicious, and very spicy. My other
friend's Pork Chops entree looked good. My dessert was a very large Brownie
with Vanilla Ice Cream. For our wine, I chose a Kendall-Jackson Shyra, mother
of the famous Australian Shiraz. It was heavy, but very good. Maybe I'll go
back sometime to try the burgers and fries! (2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BRAVO" (at the Museum of
Fine Arts) The Museum
of Fine Arts in Boston has acquired a new work of art, only it's a restaurant
rather than a painting. In the space formerly occupied by the staid Fine Arts
Restaurant, the new restaurant "Bravo" shines like a new acquisition.
The powers-that-be at the MFA decided to ratchet up the quality of their main
dining room, and they hired designer Peter Niemitz to do the job. He's
transformed the space through color, design, lighting, and furnishings, into something
resembling the living room of a wealthy art patron's estate. Burnt orange,
beige, gray, and white are the predominant colors, lit by elegant torchere
lamps spaced discreetly around the room. The paintings on the wall are by
Spanish artist Claudio Bravo, for whom the room is named. The new chef has
provided a limited, but high quality menu. My appetizer was a Vermont Goat
Cheese Tart with Tangerine, Anise Honey and Beet Root Salad. My entree was a
Free Range Chicken Breast with Salad of Pear, Blue Cheese, Spinach Cinnamon Red
Wine Vinaigrette and Pecans. My dessert was a Napoleon of Mascarpone Cheese
with Raspberries, and for the table we had an order of Homemade Miniature
Cookies. The wine was a Groth Sauvignon Blanc. Make reservations for lunch or dinner
at "Bravo" when you go to see the Rembrandt exhibit, and you can
satisfy all of your senses in one short day. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE COLONIAL
INN at CONCORD" The ideal
place to have Thanksgiving Dinner outside of your own home, is at the site of
the first Thanksgiving, Plymouth Plantation, in the company of the live-in
actors who portray the Pilgrims and Indians on a daily basis. One would have
thought that the next best bet would have been at one of the area's historic
inns, such as the old (built in 1716,) beautiful Colonial Inn, on the Green in
Concord, Mass. One would have been wrong! The old historic rooms on the main
floor were filled to capacity, so we were relegated to the basement level, in a
room that looked like your grandmother's rec-room! The food was cold, dry and
tough, and so was the waiter. No, actually, he was just stupid and rude. His
accent was so unintelligible that I thought that his initial question to us was
"Is anyone allergic to peanuts and diarrhea?" (He was saying "dairy!")
The fact that we were 18 people added to our fun, but to his misery. He simply
couldn't handle it, and the food being served, was left standing until it
cooled off considerably. Maybe I should have done the same...cooled off that
is. Oh, did I mention that we had a lot of laughs and a great time? (1-Star) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SARACENO'S" It's always a
pleasant surprise when a restaurant exceeds ones expectations. I hadn't been to
the North End's "Saraceno's" in years, and I remembered it as an outdated
relic...one of those "red sauce" places with red-checkered
tablecloths, and wax-dripping candles in Chianti bottles on the tables. In
truth, the decor does run along those lines. After being escorted through the
upstairs rooms by a reject from the cast of "The Sopranos," down a
flight of stairs, and through a maze of downstairs rooms (covered with
badly-painted murals of Italian city-scenes,) we were finally led to our table
in the farthest corner of the last room. We were a group of 11, and they seated
us at a large table, away from the other large tables. The bread and olive oil
(Colavita) were delicious. However, my appetizer of Pasta e Fagioli (a good
test of a restaurant,) was watery and tasteless, as though it had just been
poured out of a Campbell's can! The entree, on the other hand was perfect. I
had a Sogliola Meuniere ( a filet of sole with lemon and butter sauce) with
Broccoli Raba and Roasted Potatoes. Those of us who ordered a dessert of
Chocolate Profiteroles found them to be so good, (as opposed to the soggy
Tiramisu and the ordinary-tasting Cheesecake,) that we ordered seconds, only to
find that they had been changed into Vanilla Profiteroles, that didn't taste
anything like the first order. Our waitress, who had been excellent up to this
point, kept insisting that they were the same Profiteroles. There was no
convincing her otherwise. A small thing, but it said something about the
wait-staff and its attitude toward customers. I don't know what the wine was,
but my white tasted delicious...and very expensive. All in all, the restaurant
was better than what I had expected it to be, but not one of the top-drawer
restaurants in this neighborhood of excellent Italian restaurants. (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BELLA LUNA" It's hard to
be objective about reviewing a restaurant, when your friend is your waiter, and
he treats you to a round of drinks, and sends over platters of appetizers
"on the house." However, I'll try. While we were waiting for Pete to
get our table ready, we went downstairs to The Milky Way Lounge to have drinks
at the bar. The Milky Way is a quirky-looking lounge that is a combination bar,
karaoke lounge, and lanes for candlepin bowling! On the other hand, Bella Luna
upstairs, is a smallish pizzeria, with a menu that includes a full range of
Italian specialties, as well as a wide variety of pizzas. The platters of
appetizers that Pete brought to the table were: Bruschetta of Eggplant and
Mozzarella, Fried Calamari, and an interesting Antipasto platter. We ordered a
regular Cheese and Tomato Sauce Pizza, and an elaborate one with Eggplant,
Mozzarella, Artichoke, and Capers. Everything was delicious, and the service
was as professional as in any 5-star restaurant. On Pete's recommendation, we
ordered the Pinot Bianco to accompany the meal; it was perfect. A fun meal in a
fun place. (4- Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "ARBOR" When
"GQ" magazine names a new little restaurant in Jamaica Plain, as one
of the "best newcomers in America," then it's time to get over there
and see what all the fuss is about. Wow, were they right! This place is
incredible. It's storefront is so small and unobtrusive that we actually passed
it by. However, once inside the restaurant, the decor is a triumph of
simplicity, elegance and taste. Wooden floors, marble table tops, and large
squares of black and red cloth designs on the walls. The waiters are dressed in
jeans, white shirts, and long white aprons, and they all seem to be thoroughly
knowledgeable about the food on the menu. That brings us to the food. Items on
the menu are divided into three courses: Mezze, First, and Main. Everything in
each course sounds mouth-wateringly tempting; it's hard to choose. But choose
we did. My friend ordered the Tasting of all Six Mezze consisting of Basil
Cured Salmon, Goat's Cheese in Herbes de Provence, Roasted Moroccan Eggplant,
Grilled Shrimp in Harissa, Lamb and Rosemary Sausage, and Algerian Potato
Salad. I tasted all of these and they were all delicious! My first course was
an Arugula Salad with Feta Cheese, Marinated Red Peppers, Kalamata Olives, and
Preserved Lemon. My main course was a Butternut Squash Risotto with Mushrooms,
Sage, and Parmesan. My dessert was a sinful Banana Tarte Tatin with Cinnamon
and Honey Ice Cream, and Caramel Sauce. We ordered the Cheese Tray for the
table. On it were Westfield Farm Hubbardston's Cow's Milk &
Bluebonnet Goat's Milk, and Great Hill Blue Cow's Milk, served with Medjool
Dates. Our wine was a perfect Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. As if we hadn't had
enough to drink, we ended the night with Limoncello. A perfect ending to a
perfect dining experience. Get over to "Arbor" as soon as you can,
before the crowds discover it. After that, there'll be no getting in! (5- Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "UNION BAR &
GRILLE" In the not-so-distant
past, Washington Street in Roxbury, was one of Boston's most dangerous streets.
Hidden under an ancient, rusting, elevated train line, its shadows protected
drug deals and other sketchy goings on. As the wave of the South End's
gentrification swept over the area, reclaiming more and more of Roxbury, the
elevated train tracks came down, and the beautification of Washington Street
began. The new Silver Line made the street more accessible, and the brick
sidewalks and landscaping made it more beautiful. Then came the
restaurants...The Red Fez, Pho Republique, Cafe Umbra, Gallia, Flour Bakery and
Cafe...and the beautiful people grabbed up all of the new condos in the smart
new buildings and in the old converted townhouses. Now Washington Street is one
of Boston's hottest addresses, and with its new respectability, comes its
finest most elegant restaurant, the Union Bar & Grille. Named by its owner,
after New York's Union Square Cafe (arguably New York's most popular
restaurant,) where he worked as sous-chef under Michael Romano, the Union Bar
& Grille is Washington Street's crowning glory. The place reeks of class,
from its impeccable service, to its chic Peter Niemitz-designed interior, to
its perfectly prepared and presented food. Settle into one of those comfortable
black leather banquettes, and take your time in ordering, because the menu is
filled with enticing selections. My appetizer was a delicious Goat Cheese
and Arugula Salad, with Wood Grilled Eggplant and Vine-Ripened Tomatoes. The
waitress brought us a pan of freshly-baked Corn Bread to accompany our
appetizers. The entree menu included such items as Wild Striped Bass with
Squash, Rack of Lamb with Jerusalem Artichokes, Seared Salmon Fillet with Savoy
Cabbage and Roasted Apples, etc. However, I chose a "specialty of the
house," the Union Beef and Andouille Sausage Burger with Vermont Cheddar
Cheese and Gourmet Fries!! It was one of the most perfect (and expensive)
burgers that I've ever had...and that includes that damn $50 burger at DB Bistro
Moderne in New York! I ordered the Cheese Tray for dessert, but I would
recommend that you go with what my friend ordered...the White Milkshake with
Godiva Liqueur. I don't know what else is in it, but it tastes like it came
from heaven!!! Our wine was a perfect Syrah Ste. Michelle. As we left the
restaurant, and looked at the beautiful Cathedral across the wide new boulevard
of Washington Street, I could only think "now why didn't I buy one of
those townhouses, when I could have had it for less than $100,000!!!" (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "VINALIA" Wow! These
new restaurants get bigger and better, and "Vinalia" is the biggest
and best of the "new kids in town." Located on Summer Street in the
heart of Downtown Crossing, just down the block from Filene's and Macy's, the
only sign of a restaurant at street level is a conservative blue awning, with
the name of the restaurant on it. You enter what looks like an office building,
proceed up an escalator, and then "Vinalia" starts to reveal itself
around you, like a mirage. To one side of the escalator is what appears to be a
cocktail lounge, but is in fact the restaurant's Wine Bar. Low tables, with
sofas and chairs around them. On the other side of the escalator, through the
frosted-glass doors of the entrance, is the Ian Schrager/South Beach-like
Martini Bar, which last night, seemed to be the happening place in town! The
dark, blue-lighted back-lit bar was filled with beautiful young people,
milling about, drinking, and doing what people do in hopping bars. Beyond the
bar is the huge and elegant dining room itself, with large windows overlooking
Summer Street, and beyond the Dining Room are private rooms for wine-tastings.
Very impressive. Chef Justin Villa was the Executive Sous-Chef under Daniel
Bruce at Meritage, and he's learned his lessons well from a master. The items
on the menu (creative American cuisine) are extensive, and the wine list
is incredible. There's even a wine-pairing menu each night. Although it was
difficult to chose, I selected the Spinach and Parmesan Risotto, with Fava
Beans and Julienne Prosciutto as my appetizer. Three of us shared a Margarita
Wood-Grilled Pizza as well. My entree was a Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass with
Black Quinoa, Corn, and Roasted Pepper Sauce. For dessert, I had the Seasonal
Fruit and Lemon Sorbet. Our wine was a full-bodied Napa Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon. Although the portions are small, everything was quite filling and
very delicious. Did I mention that the service was impeccable? Our waitress was
delightful. Although I rarely return to a restaurant (too many new good ones to
try,) I would seriously consider returning to this one. It was just too big to
take it all in on a first visit. Go, and enjoy yourself at one of Boston's new
treasures! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "ANTHEM" Sometimes
it's hard to tell if you're enjoying a dining experience at a new restaurant,
because of the food and the restaurant, or because of the excellent company
sharing that experience with you. Such may have been the case last night. Since
I don't intend to start reviewing my friends (!) let's take a look at the
restaurant. In the space formerly occupied by the Commonwealth Brewery near the
Fleet Center, noted chef Robert Fathman ("Azure") has created a
spacious, casually glamorous, beautiful new home to his upscale American
"comfort" fare. The large dining room and bar are surrounded by
street-level windows, with lush velvet and beaded curtains used to divide the
huge room up into more intimate sections. Wooden floors, and a dark-wood
paneled bar with lit-from-below vodka bottles as decor, complete the picture.
Downstairs is a sexy and sultry lounge, which should become a popular hang out
as soon as "the beautiful young people" discover it. Now to the food.
My appetizer was an Iceberg Wedgie with Blue Cheese, Bacon Bits, Marinated
Tomato and Hard-boiled Egg. My entree was a "Mighty Meat Loaf"
(choice beef, chorizo, and Italian sausage,) with Mashed Potatoes and a large
assortment of Vegetables & Gravy. My dessert was a Grown-up Float with Ice
Cream and Bailey's. Our table shared a Fondue of Spinach and Artichoke in
Melted Cheese. Our wines were a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chilean Pinot
Noir. Everything was delicious and abundant (large portions.) The service was
first-rate....and so were my friends. Yikes! I AM reviewing my friends! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW: (1) "B & G OYSTERS, LTD." (2) "THE BUTCHER
SHOP" Famed
Boston chef and owner Barbara Lynch ("No. 9 Park,") has bravely
opened two side by side (actually, across the street from one another)
restaurants almost simultaneously. One serves oysters and other limited seafood
dishes exclusively, and the other is strictly for meat-lovers. Sort of an
upscale version of "surf and turf!" I had been told that one should
order an appetizer in one, and then go to the other for the entree. So, I
decided to try "B & G Oysters, Ltd." for my appetizer. I had a
delicious, and quite filling portion of Fried Oysters. From there, I went over
to "The Butcher Shop" for my entree. This charming place is modeled
after a European charcuterie, and in fact, it IS a butcher shop by day, where
expert hands slice and dice some of the best meat to be found in Boston. At
night, the large counter becomes a communal table, (and I suspect that when it
gets overcrowded, the butcher block does as well,) and there are only five
other granite bar-tables. So be prepared to wait, or do as I did, and wait
across the street while you're having your oyster appetizer. They'll call you
when your table is ready. My entree was an order of Rilletes en Pot (meatballs
in a bearnaise sauce.) I also had Artisanal Cheeses (the cheese tray.) The food
was absolutely perfect, although the service was typically French...slow, but
efficient. My wine was a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon. Try this
double-billed dining experience as I did, going from one to the other. If you
don't mind eating at a counter, you'll find it fun, and very European, for a
one-time event. I for one, however, prefer to eat at a real table. (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SANCTUARY" The new
club in town bills itself as a "Tapas Restaurant/Bar," and it
certainly is that, and more. Next door to Dockside, and around the corner from
Fanueil Hall, this 3-level affair seems to have already proven itself to be a
sanctuary for the downtown set. It was packed to capacity last night. The crowd
seemed to be more the 30-something after-work set, rather than the
undergraduate kids one finds at Ned Devine's or the Landsdowne Street
"mall" of clubs. Before we sat down to dinner upstairs, we checked
out the street level area, with its curved silver and wood ceiling and its two
large buddhas guarding the bar. In between the buddhas are three plasma screens
for viewing sporting events. Old time religious icons, and contemporary
"religious" icons...take your pick. There are black leather
banquettes for dining on this level, but its primarily for the bar set. In the
basement level, we stumbled into what appeared to be a private party...at least
there were lots of balloons and women wearing bunny ears! Down here you're
aware of the Fanueil Hall location, in that the walls are the exposed granite
blocks of this 18th century neighborhood. Two levels up, we were seated at a
comfortable table in a dining area away from yet another bar with plasma screens.
The setting was modernistic, with dark walls, indirect lighting, and colorful
suede seats around dark wooden tables. The music was cranked up on all three
levels...loud, but not annoying enough to disturb your dinner. Now, to dinner.
Because the menu featured tapas (small plates,) I ordered a Borlotti Bean Dip
(pureed cranberry beans, parmegiano reggiano and roasted garlic with olive oil
and crusty bread,) The Devil's Olives (in peppercorns, garlic and lemon,) and
Albondigas (homemade Spanish meatballs in a smoked tomato sauce.) For dessert,
two of us ordered three plates and shared. We had Mexican Chocolate Wontons
(bittersweet ganache wrapped in wontons with cinnamon ice cream,) Roast Banana
Cake (with roast pecans, butter-rum sauce and rum-raisin ice cream,) and Lemon
Grass Semifreddo (semi-frozen mousse with lemon confit and roast cashew
brittle.) Our wine was a pitcher of Sangria. (Order by the glass...it's
cheaper!) I apologize for the length of this review, but it's a big place, and
there's a lot going on under one roof. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "JACOB WIRTH" Because
it's under new management, with a new highly-touted chef, I decided to revisit
this Boston classic...a restaurant that's existed in three centuries! My last
visit was at least 20 years ago, and as I pulled open the heavy front door, and
walked into the dark wood-paneled bar section of the restaurant, I could see
that nothing has changed...and that's a definite compliment. The atmosphere is
authentic brauhaus, with unpolished wooden floors, high tin ceiling, wooden
cloth-covered tables, and coat-hooks and hat shelves lining the walls. 19th
Century prints and artifacts cover the walls over the hat shelf. Does anyone
wear hats anymore? The menu still has the German classic dishes on it, but
there are some new additions to show off the culinary skills of the new chef.
My appetizer was a Classic Caesar Salad with Cornbread Croutons. Incidentally,
the breadbasket consisted of freshly-baked cornbread. My entree was a Butternut
Squash and Spinach Risotto with a Potato Latke. My dessert was a Triple Sorbet.
Our wine was a Riesling. Just a word about my friend's dessert, because it was
one of the most beautiful, and tasty creations that I've ever seen. It was a
Dark Chocolate Beer Stein filled with a Raspberry and Chocolate Mousse.
Everything was edible, although the stein was so nicely crafted that we
hesitated to pick at it...but not for long. It was served with a homemade
ice-cream sandwich! Everything in Jacob Wirth's is so carefully preserved in
time, it was jarring to walk out into the hustle and bustle of Boston's theatre
district. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "BLACKFIN
CHOP HOUSE & RAW BAR" Just what
Boston needs, another seafood restaurant! Why would restaurateur/chef Tony
Ambrose close down his beautifully elegant "Ambrosia" on Huntington
Avenue, and replace it with a stylish new seafood restaurant? Maybe it's
because he felt that it's time to get rid of that tired cuisine, Asian-French
fusion. I certainly do! Or, maybe it's because he wanted to try to duplicate
the success of his "Blackfin" at the shore in Hingham. In any case,
here we are with another fancy "surf and turf" joint, and guess what?
It's wonderful. The look is stark, elegant, and ocean-blue, with large fish
tanks, custom built raw and sushi bars, and fishing paraphernalia as the rooms
decoration. The menu features mostly seafood of all varieties, and a few items
from the Blackfin Wood Fired Grill. Because it's the hot new spot in town right
now, everyone seems to be there, and it's very noisy. But that doesn't take
away from the enjoyment of dining there. My appetizer was Maryland Crab Cakes
with Tomato, Horseradish and Cilantro. My entree was Jumbo Shrimp Scampi with
Lemon Risotto and Tomatoes. My dessert was a Chocolate Ganache Layer Cake with
Coffee Ice Cream. Our wine was a delicious Pinot Grigio. Owner/chef Ambrose was
manning the raw bar tonight. He had a big smile on his face while he was
shucking those oysters. He knows a good thing when he sees it, and
"Blackfin" is a very good thing. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "HILLTOP STEAK
HOUSE" It's been
ages since I last took the trek up Route 1 to what may be the largest steak
house in America. (Their figures for number of steaks and salads sold per week
are staggering.) I used to drive up there at least once a month, to take my
young relatives (who were in school up here at the time,) and visiting friends
from other parts of the country, and Europe, for "a piece of America's
finest meat." Does it still serve the best steak around? Well, not
exactly....but I'm getting ahead of myself. Approaching this vast complex,
(restaurant and large butcher shop,) one is impressed by the size of the place.
Get there early if you don't want to wait forever for your table; they still
don't take reservations. The place was packed tonight, and the clientele looked
like a casting call for "Deliverance." My appetizer was a
mouth-watering portion of Buffalo Fingers. My friend and I both ordered the
Filet Mignon for entrees. (Junior went for the LARGE filet mignon...an
oxymoron?...and I went for the PETITE filet mignon...a redundant term?) Both
orders were accompanied by Salad and Baked Potatoes. We decided to go for beer
instead of wine with our dinners. Our dessert was an Apple Crisp with Vanilla Ice
Cream. So how was the food? Disappointing. Although the portions were HUGE, the
steak was not what I would call a filet mignon; too much fat. The large
portions were a welcome change though, from the cutesy, over-decorated tiny
portions served at some of our best gourmet restaurants...especially those damn
French-Asian "fusion" places! OK Nick, stop waving the flag. It's a
RESTAURANT review, not a political statement! In summary, the emphasis was on
quantity, not quality...and seeing so many senior citizens in sweat suits, and
red-necks in plaid, was not the ideal way to take ones mind off a bad steak! (3-Stars) RESTAURANT REVIEW: "OUTBACK
STEAK HOUSE" (in Quincy, Mass.) Believe it or not, I've never been to an Outback Steak House,
and so I was pleasantly surprised to find that the food was so good. The decor
is faux- Australia, with wooden booths and tables, and lots of Foster's signs,
and pictures of kangaroos and Ayer's Rock. The clientele was blue
collar/family, in the nicest sense of those terms. I had a delicious piece of
Grilled Salmon (I know, it's a steak house, stupid!) with Tartar Sauce &
Lemon, Baked Potato, and a Garden Salad with Bleu Cheese Dressing. We shared a
Pecan Brownie Sundae with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce. Our drink was Coors
Lite! A fine wholesome meal in what appeared to be a very wholesome setting,
but then again it was early! (4-Stars) Yeh, that's right...4-Stars RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "SOLAS" (in the Lenox Hotel) I had a craving for Irish pub fare, so we decided to head over
to the "authentic Irish pub" in the Lenox Hotel (at the finish line
of Monday's Marathon.) Because the weather was beautiful, everyone else had the
same idea. We were able to get a table upstairs overlooking all of the activity
on the street below. I realized when I looked at the menu, that what I really
wanted, was either Shepherd's Pie or Meat Loaf, neither of which was on the
menu. So I settled for a fine plate of Fish & Chips as my entree. For an
appetizer, I had their Tuscan White Bean and Escarole Soup, which was more
Campbell's than Tuscany! The ambience was very "pubby," with a lot of
people (post Red Sox/Yankees game fans) on cell-phones trying to talk to
one another over the blasting of the Rolling Stones on the sound system.
"Solas" would not be out of place in either Dublin or Belfast; it
looks like an Irish tourist pub (not a neighborhood pub.) The service was very
bad. Our waitress kept telling us, "I'll get that, hon," and then
never did. Considering what she looked like, that was a blessing! (2 1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "MORTON'S STEAK
HOUSE" If
"Mortons" isn't the best steakhouse in town (and I tend to think that
it is,) then it certainly ranks up there with "Grill 23 and Bar,"
"The Palm," "Abe & Louie's," and the "Capital
Grille," as being ONE of the best in town. Often referred to as "The
Dungeon" because of its below-ground location, one enters
"Mortons" by way of a modern office-building, down a set of marble
stairs, and through a speak-easy-like wooden door. Once inside, the atmosphere
is sleek, dark, and reeking of intimacy and efficiency. After a Jack Daniels
and Water, I had an appetizer of Morton's Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing,
Chopped Egg and Anchovies. Our waiter wheeled up a cart bearing all of the
various cuts of meat available on the menu. From the cart, I chose a Double Cut
Filet Mignon with Sauce Bearnaise. We shared a delicious order of Hashed Brown
Potatoes. My dessert was a Godiva Hot Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream.
Our wine was a Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon. This was one of those
perfect nights where everything came together...good company, beautiful
surroundings, excellent food, and impeccable service. It doesn't get
better than this. (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "Q DOBA" Fast food,
Mexican style: burritos, nachos, quesadillas, and tacos. "Taco Bell"
with less attitude, this counter-service-only place turns out inexpensive food
with fresh ingredients. I had a large Cheese Quesadilla, and a Chopped Sirloin
Taco. My drink was a Root Beer! For those of you in the Boston area,
another branch of this chain is about to open at Northeastern, in the place
vacated by "Stars." Supposedly, it will have waiter-service, plus
beer and Margaritas. Just what our students need, another watering hole! (3-Stars)
RESTAURANT
REVIEW: "TOP OF THE HUB" In Boston,
two of the classic "restaurant rules" don't apply. Rule #1- Never eat
in restaurants in hotels. (Some of our best restaurants are in our hotels.)
Rule #2- Never eat in tall buildings with a view. (Up until a short time ago,
this would have been true. Now, it's not.) For over 35 years, the "Top of
the Hub," on the 52nd floor of "The Pru'," had been a dreadful
restaurant, with a kitchen similar to one that one would find at a Howard
Johnson's. A new executive chef , Mark Porcaro, has changed all of that. Now,
the room is not only beautiful and elegant, with a view unsurpassed in all of
New England, but it also has food worthy of the view. The new menu leans
heavily on native seafood and shellfish, and aged meats. My appetizer was a
delicious Jonah and Lump Crabmeat Cake with Sweet Pepper Remoulade. My
appetizer was a Lemon and Black Pepper Pasta with Rock Shrimp, Olives, Roasted
Tomatoes and Leaf Spinach in a Roasted Garlic Cream . My dessert was a Warm
Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Mint Ice Cream, and a Raspberry Shortbread
Cookie. Our wine was a fine "Kings Estate" Pinos Gris from Oregon. After dinner we strolled
around the perimeter of the now-darkened, candle-lit restaurant and lounge,
taking in the incredible views of a beautiful city, from an altogether
different perspective. It was fun to look into Fenway Park from this angle, as
well as to peer into my own apartment just a long block away. Oops. Did I leave
a light on? (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW-MA: "CHEF ORIENT" (in
Framingham, Mass.) The last
time that I went to a "Japanese Steak House" was at the Japanese
pavilion at DisneyWorld...it was fun, the food was good, and the show was the
chef at your table. The same could be said about Chef Orient, out in the Boston
suburb of Framingham. Although far less decorative than the DisneyWorld steak
house, Chef Orient, delivers the goods. The Japanese maitre d' (owner?) and
waitresses studied our reservation, and got us to our table, with the
efficiency and detachment of workers at a Toyota factory. No "be friendly
to customer" here. We were the first diners seated around the large
tepanyaki grill, and as we ordered our drinks, were apprehensive about who
might be joining us. Our fears were justified. A local family with endless
amounts of children and a retarded uncle with a bad toupee (who sat next to
me!) were our dinner companions. An unintelligible, but efficient, waitress
took our order, and the show began. Once again, the chef was the star. With the
skill of a surgeon, and the grace of a ballerina, he played with, and prepared
our food, tossing bits of shell to the children as he cut the shrimp and vegetables.
Mercifully, once the food was slid onto our plates on the blades of his dancing
knives, it was excellent. My appetizer was a Salad with Ginger Dressing. (The
waitress brought us two each..."no extra charge.") Then came an Onion
Soup, Japanese Style (the bowl was Japanese.) My entree was an Hibachi Salmon
with "Garlic Touch" served with Hibachi Vegetables. Dessert was
Coconut Ice Cream. We left the restaurant over the bridge covering the small
pond with goldfish, feeling strangely full, and smiling about the surprisingly
satisfying dining experience. (4
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "L" (at Louis of Boston) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "CROMA" A new
Italian restaurant on Newbury Street, owned by a British restaurateur? What's
that all about? "Croma," in the space vacated by "Davio's,"
is the sister restaurant of a successful restaurant in Manchester, England. The
menu features pastas and pizzas, and for those of you who still think of
England as a gustatory wasteland, forget about it. This one's a winner...more
or less! The ambience is that of a lovely townhouse, with two elegant, but
understated interior floors, and a charming garden patio out front on Newbury
Street. We started off with a Margherita pizza as an appetizer. Really
delicious, but be warned. They're small and expensive. Then, we shared a dreary
Caesar Salad. After which, I had a Three Cheese Lasagna, which I shared with my
friend who had an order of Eggplant Parmesan. Everything was very tasty, but
nothing more than what would expect from a good "red-sauce" Italian
joint. Maybe it was the delicious Pinot Noir, or the cocktails that we had
before dinner, but everything seemed just a little better than it probably was!
Oh well, it's a pretty place, and the waiter was a great guy. Very friendly,
and helpful. If you go to "Croma," get boozed up as we did, and
everything will seem better than it really is. (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW-"TANGIERINO" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "THE STANHOPE GRILL"
(in the New Jury's Hotel in Boston) One of
Dublin, Ireland's most famous hotels has always been Jury's. Now, Jury's has
come to Boston. After a multi-million dollar restoration, the New Jury's Hotel
has moved into the palatial Italian Renaissance building formerly occupied by
the Boston Police Headquarters! The interior decor is simple, but elegant. Of
course, there is a Cuff's Irish Bar there, but its premiere restaurant is The
Stanhope Grill. We took a table facing the open kitchen, rather than sitting
outside on the sunken terrace. As there always is in Ireland, there was a
chance of rain. The friendly wait-staff made us feel at home very quickly.
Possibly because we were the only ones eating inside. My appetizer was the
House Smoked Salmon with Warm German Potato Salad, Creme Fraiche and Sturgeon
Caviar. My entree was the best Shepherd's Pie that I've had since Molly Darcy's
Pub closed its doors in South Boston. Our dessert was a sampling of three
desserts...Pineapple Sorbet, Chocolate Souffle, and a Vanilla Panna Cotta. We
selected a Pinot Noir from Ireland as our wine! It was delicious, as was
everything else. (4 -Stars) RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "SMITH &
WOLLENSKY'S" RESTAURANT
REVIEW- "VIA VALVERDE" RESTAURANT
REVIEW:MA- "UMBRIA" First it
was "Trattoria Il Panino," and now the five-story extravaganza in the
Financial District has been completely redone and is now called
"Umbria." Owners Frank DePasquale, Rita D'Angelo and Chef/Owner
Marisa Iocco (the trio who brought us the highly-successful "Bricco"
in the North End,) are using the same format of their old "Il
Panino," that is, a state of the art bi-level nightclub on the top two
floors, a Vegas-style plush cocktail lounge on the third floor, event rooms on
the second floor and a rustic restaurant (with open kitchen) on the lower
floor. Chef Marisa Iocco claims that this is the first truly Umbrian menu in
the United States, with fresh ingredients flown in daily from the owners' farm
in Umbria. The young and the beautiful who've packed the place every night
since it opened earlier this month, don't seem to care if she were cooking up
burgers and fries, and probably couldn't tell a truffle from a dorito! I do and
I can, so this is what I ordered: a shared Platter of Perfect Salumi and
Prosciutto (Spicy Umbrian Sopresatto and Prosciutto, with Regional Cheeses.) My
appetizer was Polpette di Polenta (White Polenta "meat" balls with
Crispy Veal Bites in White Wine Tomato Ragout.) My entree was a perfect Risotto
with White Truffles. My dessert was a Panna Cotta. Our wine was a smooth
Umbrian Orvieto. The excellent food aside, there are some negatives to dining
at Umbria. First of all, there's a pompous, rude and uptight maitresse d', all
attitude and no service, who kept us waiting a half-hour beyond our reservation
time. Then we were seated in the very intimate (read cramped) dining area.
Luckily, we had chatty and friendly "neighbors" on either side of us.
My friend was brought the wrong entree, but it was soon replaced with the
correct one, and we weren't charged for the entree. Someone finally realized
that they were jacking us around, and they tried to make amends. Too little,
too late. Knock one and a half stars off of what could be a 5-Star restaurant.
(Get rid of the plasma screen in the open bar area, and the maitresse d', and
put some space between those tables in the dining room.) (3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT:
MA REVIEW- "SIBLING RIVALRY" RESTAURANT:MA
REVIEW- "LA MORRA" in Brookline,
Massachusetts Josh
Ziskin's family had a picture-framing store in Brookline. Thinking to join the
family business, Josh decided to take a trip to Italy first. In the small town
of La Morra, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, Josh fell in love with
the town and its cuisine, and stayed on for two years, learning everything
about the foods and wines of Italy. Having decided to become a chef, he
returned to Boston, where he apprenticed with Marisa Iocco
("Umbria,") and Rene Michelena ("Saint.") He bought a small
store in Brookline, opened his new restaurant, "La Morra," and the
restaurant is becoming history. Critics have called this new restaurant one of
the most outstanding places to get Italian food, not only in Boston, but in the
U.S. as well. (One even said that it has the finest Italian food outside of
Italy!) Well, that's certainly a challenge, and so we went there last night.
Well, we went, and although it might not be the finest place for Italian food
outside of Italy (that spot is reserved for those four restaurants in Brooklyn
( Fra-Mar's, Romano's, Villa Vivola, and Tommasso's ) where I ate as a child
and young adult, it's certainly one of the most authentically Italian
restaurants in all of America. We started our meal with cicchetti (Venetian
small plates): Arancini and Tuscan Polpette. My appetizer was an Escarole Salad
with Ricotta Salata, Walnuts and Apples. My primi piatti was Gnocchi alla
Bolognese. My secondi was Sea Scallops served with Parsnip Puree, Sage Brown
Butter and Spinach with Lemon and Capers. We had the Cheese Tray for dessert as
well as a Sorbet Trio. Our wine was an excellent Trebbiano. Everything was
delicious, and the service equaled the food. Jennifer Ziskin, the chef's wife,
treated us as though we were visiting celebrities. That's always nice. I love
this place! (5-Stars) RESTAURANTS:MA-
"EMMA'S PIZZA" (in Cambridge) RESTAURANT:MA-
REVIEW- "PIERROT BISTROT
FRANCAIS" RESTAURANT:
MA REVIEW- "THE UPPER CRUST" In my
never-ending search to find the best pizza in Boston, tonight, the search
brought me to Coolidge Corner in Brookline, to The Upper Crust, "the best
pizzeria in Brookline." As soon as I walked through the door and saw the
thin-crust pizza being served, I knew that, no matter how good it was, this
pizza wouldn't qualify as a "traditional" Neapolitan pizza. I ordered
a simple Pizza Margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil,) and it was
delicious. It was better than some of the other thin-crust pizzas around (
Emma's, Woody's, and Figs, ) but it wasn't a traditional pizza. As far as I'm
concerned, the best Neapolitan pizza is still served at Canestaro's, and the
best Sicilian, at Ernesto's. The search goes on. (4-Stars) RESTAURANT:MA
REVIEW- "SORRISO" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "SALTS" in Cambridge RESTAURANT
MA:REVIEW- "AMELIA'S
KITCHEN" RESTAURANTS:MA-
REVIEW- "PENGUIN PIZZA" RESTAURANTS-MA
REVIEW: "ZAFTIG'S" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "THE METROPOLITAN
CLUB" RESTAURANTS-MA-REVIEW:
"PETIT ROBERT BISTRO" RESTAURANTS-MA
REVIEW: "THE WINE CELLAR" The
specialty of this tiny Swiss/French restaurant is wine, obviously, and fondue.
My God, when's the last time that you had fondue outside of Switzerland? If
you're old enough, you'll remember the fondue craze back in the day, when every
young married couple received a fondue pot as a shower, engagement, or even
wedding, gift. Well, in the case of this charming, but cramped, Back Bay
restaurant, the craze is back! Although there are other items on the menu for
each course, we couldn't resist going for the fondues. (Just in case you might
not know about fondues, they're served in hot pots brought to the table, and
you then dip chunks of bread into the melted cheeses, meat into the boiling
olive oil, and strawberries and banana chunks into the melted
chocolate/brandy.) For our appetizers, we had the Escargots with Pesto, and the
Classic Cheese Fondue. For our entree, we had the Beef Bourguignon Fondue, and
for our dessert, we had the Grand Marnier Chocolate Fondue. Complete overkill,
and sybaritic joy!!! (I was just reading about Sybaris, as part of the research
on our up-coming trip to Italy. I would have loved living there in its ancient
glory days.) But, I digress. The meal was delicious, and we washed it down with
a terrific appropriate wine-pairing for each course: Chateau Haut Peyruguet
2002 Bordeaux with the Esacargots; Louis Latour Chardonnay 2002 with the
Cheeses; Chateau Courlat Bordeaux 2001 with the Beef; and Marquis de la Tour Sparkling
with the Chocolate. Owner Thierry Charles should be congratulated for the
magnificent pairings of wine and fondues. I'm writing this review late at
night, because I'm so damn full, that if I went to bed, I'd probably fall right
through the mattress! (4
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "PIZZA OGGI" RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "BYBLOS" (in Norwood, MA) RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "DOMANI" RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "CRAZY DOUGH'S" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "EASTERN STANDARD" Kenmore
Square, in the heart of Boston University territory, has been transformed from
a sleazy, down-at-the-heels second-rate Boston square into a place to go for
fine dining and a pleasant walk-around. Much of this change is due to the
opening of the chateau-like Hotel Commonwealth, which occupies most of the
Square. It contains a fine seafood restaurant, "Great Bay," a new
trendy lounge, "The Foundation Lounge," and now, a Parisian
restaurant, "Eastern Standard." Looking, inside and out, very much
like the Cafe de la Paix in Paris, you're immediately swept away from Boston to
the streets of Paris. On the street-side, there is an al fresco cafe under
large red awnings. On the inside, is a cavernous Art Deco restaurant. Think
Balthazar in New York or one of the grand cafes of the "city of
lights." The mastermind behind this wonderful place, is Garrett Harker,
partner to Barbara Lynch in such ventures as "No. 9 Park," "B
& G Oysters," and "The Butcher Shop." Although Parisian in
appearance, the menu is distinctly American, albeit gourmet American. My
appetizer was a beautifully presented order of Salt Cod Fritters. There was an
amuse-bouche of Crudites for the table. The entrees were Beef Wellington with
Mashed Potatoes, one of my favorites, and all-too-rarely seen on menus. Our
desserts were Sorbets (Watermelon, Pineapple, and Strawberry.) Our wine was a
South African Pinot Grigio. Everything was delicious. I have to say a word
about the charming wait-staff. From the two young ladies at the reservations
desk, to the statuesque maitress d', to our lovely waitress, all were charming,
helpful, attentive, and quite attractive. This certainly added to the dining
experience. All in all, an excellent dining experience...and in Kenmore Square
of all places! (5-Stars) RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "TRATTORIA
TOSCANA" RESTAURANT- MA REVIEW:
"STELLA" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "MARE" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "NEPTUNE OYSTER" RESTAURANTS
MA-REVIEW: "ZAFFERANO" RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "BACCO"(New) RESTAURANTS
MA-REVIEW: "INTERMISSION
TAVERN" What used
to be a sleazy little bar in the Theater District, is now a sleazy little
restaurant in the Theater District. The difference is that it now has decent food...a
good place to stop before a show, if you don't want to stuff yourself at one of
the more famous ethnic restaurants in the area. Actually, to be fair, it's
really not very "sleazy" anymore; it's been cleaned up and painted
over, and the food is just fine for a comfort-food menu. I love Meat Loaf, and
that's what I ordered as my entree. It came with Mashed Potatoes and Lemon
Asparagus, and it was good, but not terrific. (My appetizer was a salad of
Bufala Mozzarella and Heirloom Tomatoes with Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing. )
My dessert was a Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake. The main problem with this new
little place, is that the service is just awful. It was a chore trying to make
eye contact with one of the three waitresses in this full house, just to get
some bread and water. At least the bathrooms were new and clean! (2-Stars) RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "MAMMA MARIA" RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "RUTH'S CHRIS
STEAK HOUSE" RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "MARCO CUCINA
ROMANO" RESTAURANT-MA
REVIEW: "DARWIN'S" (in Harvard
Square) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "THE MISSION BAR & GRILL" On Mission Hill, one of Boston's "neighborhoods in transition," gunshots alternate with wine corks popping out of bottles at fine restaurants. Tucked amongst the triple-deckers, the Victorians, and the big cathedral on the Hill, is "The Mission Bar & Grill," the newest of these restaurants. In a space formerly occupied by a sleazy bar named "The Chopping Block," "The Mission" is surprisingly wonderful. With beautiful decor to rival anything in the more upscale North or South Ends, "The Mission" has a menu that could be called "American Gourmet." My appetizer was a Salad of Arugula, Pecorino, Romano, Walnuts and Balsamic Dressing. My entree was a Grilled Salmon with Marinated Winter Vegetables and Asparagus Spears. No dessert...still dieting, sort of. (Actually, they don't serve dessert!) My wine was a fine Sauvignon Blanc. It's restaurants such as this one, that help to gentrify a neighborhood. Hopefully, more will follow. (4-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW:
"RENDEZVOUS"
Believe it or not, what was once a cheesy, sleazy Burger
King, is now the most beautiful new restaurant in Central Square in
Cambridge, since "The Enormous Room" opened ages ago. Chef/Owner Steve
Johnson (formerly of "Hamersley's" and "The Blue Room,") has transformed
this place into a destination to be reckoned with. This time, however, he's
not behind the stove, as he was in "The Blue Room," but his chef Deepak Kaul certainly
is in sync with his boss. The food is exquisite! The room has a minimalist
look, done up in browns, woods and mustards, with streaks of orange. It's
comfortable, but something is missing; I'm not sure what. But there's
nothing missing with the food, the presentation, or the service. All are
top-drawer. The menu leans to Mediterranean, with hints of the Middle East.
My appetizer was an Early Spring Vegetable Antipasto with Roasted Eggplant
Puree. My entree was a Grilled Alaskan King Salmon with Curry Leaves,
Basmati Rice & Mustard Butter Sauce. No dessert, as I'm still sort of
dieting. (Just three more pounds to go before I lose the full 24 pounds that
I gained last year!) Our wine was an absolutely delicious Feudo D'Elimi
Sicilian Red. I love these new Sicilian wines; so smooth! By the way, if
you're lucky enough NOT to be dieting, order the Chocolate Cake with
Hazelnut Pralines and Cinnamon Cream; it's supposed to be delicious!
(4 1/2-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: “SORELLINA”
Take a trip with me to
(5-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA- REVIEW: “ECLANO”
What can a new
restaurant add to the already bustling restaurant scene in the largest
“Little
(5-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW:
"dante"
The Royal Sonesta Hotel sits on a prime
location on the Charles River. It's windows, terraces, and restaurant
overlook the River, the entire skyline of Back Bay Boston, and the
charming, historic Longfellow Bridge. Replacing "Davio" as the main
restaurant of the hotel, is "dante," the brainchild of Dante de
Magistris. It's his first restaurant in America. When he was only in
his 20's, chef Magistris was the sous-chef at the world famous,
incomparable "Don Alfonso1890" restaurant in Sant' Agata, on the
Amalfi Coast, (arguably, Italy's finest restaurant...where a few of us
were lucky enough to have dined last summer.) From there, he came to
Boston, where he was the chef at "blu," "cafe Louis," and "The
Federalist." Now, with the help of his brothers Damian and Filippo
(who have also worked in some of New York and Boston's finest
restaurants,) they have established "dante" as the new "destination
restaurant." The decor is dramatically stark and minimalist,
reflecting the colors of the River outside of its large windows. There
are eight separate spaces, including two dining areas, two bars, two
lounges, a balcony, and an outdoor dining patio overlooking the
Charles River. Some of the unusual features of the decor include a
concrete bar, imported Italian leather dining chairs and bar stools,
and special stained compressed bamboo dining tables. On the walls, are
paintings from the world-renowned art collection of Sonesta owners,
Roger and Joan Sonnabend. The food is inspired by the
Mediterranean....classic Italian, French and Spanish, and it is
magnificent. After an amuse-bouche of Chicken Rillet and Fava Beans,
my appetizer was Escargot with Truffle-Whipped Potato Spuma, Candied
Lemon and Garlic Crumbs. My pasta course was Potato Gnocchi with
Cheese Sauce, Porchetta, Sweet Peas and Fava Beans. My entree was
Porcini Crusted Scallops with Truffled Tapioca, Fava Puree, and Soft
Vidalia Onions. My dessert was a Chocolate Mousse Tart with Frozen
Creme Fraiche and Sliced Strawberries and Tangerines. Our wine was a
delicious, but potent, Cotes-du-Rhone Burgundy. Everything about this
place reeked of class, including the chef, who came to our table to
sign a menu from "Don Alfonso" which I had brought with me. Tacky, but
effective. Dante was very surprised and impressed, and took the
menu into the kitchen where all of the sous-chefs stopped their work
to read it. We all have our weaknesses. Mine was the length of this
review. Sorry!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANTS MA-REVIEW: "Cafe D"
When Doug Organ's Jamaica Plain restaurant,
"Arbor" first opened a few years ago, it was named as "one of the
best newcomers in America" by GQ magazine. We ate there and agreed
with them. Therefore, I was surprised to hear the news that Organ
was closing it down, renovating it, and reopening it as a less
expensive "cafe," albeit with most of the menu items from "Arbor"
intact. According to Organ, "Arbor" was doing "no business on
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday nights!" Now, as "Cafe D," it looks
like an elegant cafe, with foreign newspapers papering the walls,
modern art and colorful murals, and mismatching chandeliers hanging
from the ceiling. In spite of all of this, (or maybe because of
it,) it still looks very "uptown." Thankfully, the food is still
exceptionally good (the same chefs from Arbor are in the kitchen,)
and now they're doing great business during the middle of the week.
Good for them! My appetizer was a beautifully seasoned Steak Tartare
with Olives, Capers, Herbs, Aioli and Toasts. My entree was a
Roasted Monkfish with French Green Lentils, Sesame Roasted Asparagus
and Moroccan Charmoula Sauce. Delicious! My dessert was a creamy
delicate Italian Rice Pudding ringed with Marinated Cherries. It was
one of the best desserts that I've ever had. Our wine was an
exceptional Australian Shiraz. It would appear that chef/owner Doug
Organ made the right decision. Less really Is more!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "OM Restaurant and Lounge"
From the minute that you walk through those
heavy wooden doors (in fact, even before that,) you can see that
the owners of "OM" have spent a great deal of money on this new
Harvard Square restaurant, to give it a distinctive look. Inside
those carved wooden doors, is a darkened lobby with a waterfall,
that opens into a lavish lounge and upstairs dining room, filled
with the owners personal collection of Tibetan art (sculptures and
paintings.) Add some flowers and candles, and you've got "a look."
In my case, I was thankful that the food wasn't Tibetan as well!
Instead, it's an unusual type of American Nouvelle, where several
of the dishes are deconstructed (the ingredients are on the plate,
but YOU have to blend them to create your own version of a classic
dish.) We started our meal with an amuse-bouche of Shrimp, Squid
and Ham with Couscous. My appetizer was a Deconstructed Caesar
Salad. It was fun putting it all together, including the Coddled
Egg, the Anchovies, and the Croutons. My entree was Grilled Steak
and Eggs ( a Grilled Filet Mignon with Fried Truffle Egg, Yukon
Potato Puree, Asparagus Spears, and Bordelaise Sauce.) My dessert
was Carrot Cake with Parsnip Ice Cream, Creme Fraiche Icing,
Toasted Walnuts and Habanera Chili Caramel Sauce. Our wine was a
hearty Brunello di Montalcino. For some strange reason, if you go
to OM early, the restaurant is filled with families with children,
albeit well-behaved ones. So, go after 7pm. That aside, the place
is a perfect place for fine, gourmet dining.
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "BASTA PASTA"
When you come up to this Cambridge
hole-in-the-wall, resist the temptation to turn around and go
elsewhere. It looks like a cheap sub-shop...a dive. But, it most
definitely isn't! Go in, pass the self-serve drink refrigerator,
the take-out counter, the pizza oven, and grab a seat at one of
the basic tables. As soon as you see the menu, you'll know that
this isn't what you thought it was. Chef/owner Reno Hoxallari
has cheffed at some of Boston's finest restaurants and his menu
selections show what he can do. My appetizer was an order
of Crispy-crusted Mini Arancini with Fontina Cheese. After an
appetizer of rice I should have chosen a different entree, but
you know that I can't resist a good risotto! My entree was the
White Risotto with Prosciutto, Goat Cheese, and Lemon Thyme. I
probably won't have a bowel movement for weeks!!! (When's the
last time you saw that sentence in a restaurant review?) In any
case, everything was absolutely delicious...and ridiculously
inexpensive. How refreshing.
(3-Stars) Hell, I had to take something
off for decor, right?
RESTAURANTS MA-REVIEW:
"TRESCA"
The most elegant restaurant in Boston's
North End, "Via Valverde," has just changed management. The
new owner is the former captain of the Boston Bruins, Ray
Bourque. Because Bourque was a silent partner in the original
restaurant, not much will change behind the scenes, where it
counts. "Tresca" now sets the standard for excellence in the
North End, as "Via Valverde" did before. The decor is still
palatial, and service and presentation are still top-drawer.
The major differences between the "Via Valverde" of the past,
and the present-day "Tresca," is that, where the former had a
"jacket-and-tie" dress code, the latter is "anything goes,"
and the present restaurant for some reason is LOUD, very loud,
and somewhat boisterous. But, it's the food that counts, and
the food at "Tresca" is every bit as good as it was at "Via
Valverde." My appetizer was a Capesante Veneziane (large
native sea scallops pan-seared in a tomato and shellfish broth
infused with saffron and thyme.) My entree was Risotto con
Aragosta (fresh Maine lobster simmered with Vialone Nano
risotto in a basil tomato broth.) I ordered the Cheese and
Fruit Plate for dessert. Our wine was a delicious Vernaccia di
San Gimignano.
(4-Stars) (Those bachelorette parties
were really LOUD!!) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "LULU'S BAKE SHOPPE"
If you're in the North End in
Boston, and you're looking for an alternative to Modern
Pastry or Mike's, try the little shop on Hanover Street
that looks like it belongs on the Main Street at
DisneyWorld. It's tiny, decorated to look like an
old-fashioned kitchen, and it's filled with the most
delicious old-fashioned American baked goods. There are
chocolate-chip cookies (and every other type of
all-American cookie,) brownies, shortbread, cheesecake
squares, and trays filled with freshly-baked cupcakes. I
had a chocolate cupcake, with marshmallow filling. Yum,
Yum!
(4-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "CAFE POLONIA"
If you need a break in your
routine of dining out at one of Boston's fine
steakhouses, or Italian, French, and seafood
restaurants, why not try a Polish dinner, at Boston's
only authentic Polish restaurant, the charming Cafe
Polonia in "Southie?" Just a short cab-ride from the
center of Boston, one steps into what could be a tiny
restaurant in any city in Poland. The walls are stone,
and the seats and tables are polished oak, with seats
covered in woven pillows. There are artifacts from
Poland on the walls, and up on the shelf above. Up
above us, is a picture of the former president of
Poland, Lech Welesa, when he dined here three years
ago. The beautiful, charming hostess/waitress seats
us, and after studying the menu, I selected the
following: my soup was a delicious Sour Pickle and
Potato Soup. My appetizer was a Half Ring of Grilled
Fresh Kielbasa with Mustard and Horseradish. My entree
was an order of 8 Pierogi...Cheese, Potato and Cheese,
and Cabbage and Mushrooms. My dessert was Szarlotka
(Warm Polish Apple Cake served with Whipped Cream.)
Our beverage was a Polish Beer. My friend Krys is
fluent in Polish, and having him with me, conversing
with our lovely hostess in Polish, added to the whole
dining experience. Moral: if you decide to eat there,
go with a Pole or a Polish-American; it's more fun!
(4-Stars)
RESTAURANT REVIEW: "HOBSON'S CHOICE" (in Williamstown,MA) A local favorite for many years, I can't understand why I've never been here before. It's a real treasure! "Hobson's Choice" is a rustic bistro that serves healthy, country fare. The decor is wood, wood, and more wood! We sat in a nook for four, with high-backed wooden seats with soft pillows on each seat. Our waitress was a charming, smart local girl...probably a student at Williams College. After a delicious wholesome Garden Salad with Bleu Cheese Dressing & Croutons, I had a Grilled Mahi Mahi with Putanesca Sauce, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, and Grilled Zucchini. My dessert was the specialty of the house...Mud Pie. Our wine was a fine Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. An excellent dinner for our first night in Williamstown on this trip. The fresh mountain air makes you want to eat more than you should...and we did! (5-Stars)
RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "AVILA"
Why would an enterprising
entrepreneur like Steve DiFilippo chose to open a
new restaurant just a few blocks away from his
record-breaking place, "Davio's?" I have no idea,
but Boston diners should be thankful that he did,
because "Avila" is quite wonderful. Featuring the
cuisine of five Mediterranean countries--Portugal,
Spain, Greece, Italy, and France--dinner at
"Avila's" is like eating at a Michelin-star
restaurant in Europe. Chef Rodney Murillo uses
traditional Mediterranean recipes, but gives the
resulting dishes a modern presentation and uses the
best ingredients available anywhere. When you enter
the restaurant, there's a sense of deja vu about it,
because it does resemble "Davio's" in size and
decor, with the kitchen at center stage, as it is at
"Davio's." But, getting back to the food, for an
appetizer, I chose
Escargots, with
Fennel, Garlic Butter, Pernod and Parsley. We shared
a portion of Davio's Hand Rolled Gnocchi with Basil,
Shaved Parmigiano and White Truffle Oil. They were
every bit as good as I remember them being at
Davio's. My entree was Za 'atar Spiced Black Pearl
Salmon with Roasted Garlic Pepper Cream, and Feta
Cheese Risotto. My dessert was a Tray of Twelve
Greek, Italian, and French Miniature Pastries. Our
wine was a hearty Montepulciano. A fine addition to
the dining scene in the Theatre District.
(5-Stars)
BAR AND RESTAURANT REVIEW:
SAUCIETY &
THE BIRCH BAR
RESTAURANT
MA-REVIEW: "L' ESPALIER"
In my on-going survey of
the world's finest restaurants, I thought that I
should pay a long-delayed return (I haven't been
there in 20 years) visit to what is arguably the
finest restaurant in Boston, and one of the finest
in the world. Housed in an 1880 Back Bay
townhouse, the restaurant looks elegant before
you've even set foot inside the iron gates at the
front door. The luxurious appointments of a bygone
era usher you into the foyer and dining rooms of
this truly magnificent interior space. One may
choose to eat in either the Front Room, the
Library or the Salon. I chose the Front Room,
because, very simply, its beauty is stunning.
Picture an elaborate, yet tasteful Victorian
dining room in the home of a very wealthy family,
and this is it. The taupe and cream room, with its
carved marble fireplace, luxurious plasterwork,
and views overlooking Gloucester Street has a
feeling of classic elegance. Now, to the
food. Frank McClelland, world renowned chef/owner
has created several prix-fixe dinners. We chose
the 3-course dinner (with a few "add-ons.") For
starters, there were two amuse-bouches, of several
small Napoleons of Salmon and Herbed Cream Cheese,
and Tartes of Goat Cheese. Then came the Caviar,
with Traditional accompaniments of Capers, Onions,
Parsley and Hard-boiled Eggs with Brioche Toast
Points! After that, my appetizer was Equinox Field
Greens with Buffalo Mozzarella and
Balsamic-Marjoram Vinaigrette. My entree was
Seared Scallops with Fresh Farmers Beans and
Chorizo, in Lemon-Shellfish Broth. Then, another
amuse-bouche of Spiced Soba Noodles with Oysters.
We had the Cheese Tray which included La Tur, Peve
Sauvage, Petit Jurassic, Affidelice, and Bayley
Hazen. All were delicious. Our dessert was a
Valrhona Dark Chocolate Fondant with Roasted Black
Mission Figs, Ginger Almond Crisp and Lemon
Verbena Ice Cream. If this weren't enough, a small
tray of Petits Fours and Homemade Candies was
brought to the table to finish us off! All of this
was accompanied by a Westport Rivers (the winery
that we visited last Sunday) Chardonnay. Needless
to say, everything was sheer perfection...the
decor, the impeccable service, the presentation of
the food, and the incredible food itself. Save
this for a special occasion. It's expensive, but
well worth every dollar.
(5-Stars) Sorry
for the length of this review; I could have said
more!
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW:
"BOUCHEE"
Charles Sarkis and the
Back Bay Group ("Abe and Louie's," "Papa Razzi,")
have opened an authentic French brasserie, in
the style of New York's "Balthazar" and "Pastis,"
in the place formerly occupied by the now
defunct "DuBarry" on Newbury Street. We have
several of these bistro-type restaurants in
Boston...most recently opened, Jacky Robert's
"Petit Robert Bistro," but it's always good to
have another one. Hell, Paris is loaded with
them, right? In any case, the designers have got
the decor right. It looks just like a Parisian
bistro/brasserie, with a zinc bar, hardwood
floors, and a tin ceiling, dressing up this
two-story space on Newbury Street. I had access
to the extensive menu for a week, so I was able
to study the many wonderful choices offered. In
fact there are so many, that it was hard to
choose. But choose I did. For an appetizer, I
couldn't resist the Escargots in Garlic, Butter
and Parmesan Breadcrumbs. We came on a Thursday
night, because the Plat du Jour on Thursdays is
Imported Dover Sole, one of my favorite dishes,
and one that's not always found on menus, except
in very expensive places. (In "Alize" in Vegas
it cost $70!) Here, it was served with Beurre
Meuniere with Fingerling Potatoes, Mushroom
Fricassee and Citrus Tapenade. We had the
Assiette des Fromages (Cheese Tray,) and then a
Sorbet Tasting for dessert. I had a glass of
Sauvignon Blanc. It's a noisy place, especially
when it starts to fill up (and fill up it did,)
but that's what a bistro should be. This one's a
goldmine!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: THE NEW FACULTY CLUB at NORTHEASTERN
Whereas the old
Faculty Club had old world/ivy league charm,
the new Faculty Club has all of the charm of
an unoccupied laboratory. With the exception
of a view of the downtown skyline out of the
6th floor windows on one wall, the rest of
the room is barren. I mean BARREN. No
ornamentation whatsoever. Give me back the
old Club, now used only for functions.
Thankfully, the food and service are
excellent.
The buffet consisted
of: Antipasta of Cold Cuts, Bufala
Mozzarella and Heirloom Tomatoes. The soup
was a delicious Vegetable Soup. The entrees
were Baked Squash Casserole with Romano
Cheese, Zucchini Stuffed Sole in Herbed
Cream, Braised Chicken in a Morel Veloute,
Smoked Mozzarella and Basil Ravioli with
Pomodoro Sauce, and Orange Glazed Sweet
Potato Wedges. Our desserts were Boston
Cream Pie and Apple Cinnamon Crisp. As I
said before, the food and service were just
fine (although our waiter got more
absent-minded as the meal progressed,) but
it didn't make up for the lack of
chandeliers hanging from high carved
ceilings, wood-burning fireplaces on either
end of the room, ceiling-to-floor windows
covered with velvet drapes and overlooking
The Fens, and huge oil paintings of past
presidents of the university. I can't wait
to rent the old Club for a private dinner!
(3-Stars)
RESTAURANTS MA-REVIEW:
"CLIO"
In between
reviewing new restaurants that have opened
lately, I've gone back to my list of
Boston's 20 Best Restaurants (listed
on Restaurants MA on my web-site,) to eat
at, and review the 10 restaurants that I
ate at before I had a web-site, so there
are no reviews posted for them. I'll
remedy that. One of my favorites on that
list has always been Ken Oringer's "Clio"
in the Eliot Hotel. When
internationally-renowned chef Jean-Georges
Vongerichten started here at the
now-defunct "Lafayette" restaurant before
he became world famous, his sous-chef was
Ken Oringer. Chef Oringer learned a lot
from the master! His "Clio" is beautiful,
elegant, and intimate, with velvet
banquettes and large floral
arrangements. The menu is small, but
filled with superb choices. My appetizer
was the Salad of Mesclun, Crisp
Vegetables, Herbs and Flowers with Fresh
Goat Cheese and Vinaigrette. My entree was
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Poached Arctic
Char with Kohlrabi, Grapefruit, and White
Asparagus. We then selected the Plateau de
Fromages (Cheese Tray,) with several fine
cow, sheep, and goat cheeses. My dessert
was a Caramelized Brioche with Fresh
Raspberries and Chocolate Sorbet. Our wine
was an excellent, but strong, Napa
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, "Clio" is
still one of Boston's 20 Best
restaurants!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "AUJOURD' HUI" In Boston's Four Seasons Hotel,
walk up the grand
staircase with its sweeping views of the
Public Garden, off the elegant lobby of
the Four Seasons Hotel, and you'll enter
the even-more-elegant dining room known
as "Aujourd' hui." One of only two
restaurants in the entire state of
Massachusetts to receive the coveted AAA
Five Diamond Award, it was rated #1 in
Food, Service & Decor in the 2005 Zagat
Survey. The lush decor features oak
flooring and rich dark chocolate
furnishings, accented with grey
and chocolate floral fabrics. Set
beneath soaring columns, with Georgia O'
Keefe-like black and white paintings
hanging on the walls, Rivolta linens
dress each tabletop adorned with Ginori
china. Chef de Cuisine William Kovel,
serves modern French cuisine, prepared
with the freshest regional ingredients
flown in daily from around the world. In
short, the stage is set for a dinner to
rival anything served in any of the
world's great restaurants. Did it make
the grade? Absolutely! My appetizer was
Cauliflower Risotto with Baked Truffles.
There was a delicious amuse-bouche of
Turnip Soup, followed by an entree of
Sea Scallops with Truffled Potato Puree,
Melted Leeks and Lobster Sauce. Our
Cheese Tray consisted of an assortment
of Cow, Goat, and Sheep Cheeses with a
Goat Cheese Waffle, Nuts, and a Pureed
Apricot. My dessert was a Bittersweet
Chocolate Truffle Bar with Caramelized
Banana and Latte Mascarpone Mousse. Our
wine was a strong Sardinian White.
In the 15 years
since I've been to this restaurant, the
chef has changed, and so has the decor.
But everything...food, presentation, and
service...are still perfection!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "OLIVES"
Todd English, the "rock star"
of the chef world, has opened
restaurants all over the world,
including one on the Queen Mary II.
But this original one in the charming
old neighborhood of Charlestown, near
picturesque Bunker Hill, was the
first, and is still considered the
flagship of his gustatory empire. When
it first opened, 15 years ago, it was
unique in a Boston that still did not
have the hundreds of diverse,
gourmet restaurants that it has today.
The chef was always "at home" in the
place, bouncing from table to table,
and back to the kitchen. Now, a visit
to "Olives" is something like going to
one of Boston's many historic
sites....but one with excellent food!
And the food IS still excellent, with
unique menu choices that can only be
found at a Todd English restaurant. My
appetizer was the Olives Tart with
Caramelized Onion, Goat Cheese,
Anchovies, Olives and Basil.
Absolutely delicious! My entree was
Ricotta Agnolotti "Al Plin," over Slow
and Low Braised Veal Bolognese, Lemon
Thyme and Basil. Our dessert was Todd
English's classic Fallen Chocolate
Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. Our wine
was my favorite Tuscan white,
Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Not only
did Olives not disappoint. It was even
better than I remembered it being on
my last visit over a decade ago. A
true classic.
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "JOE V'S"
My friend Keith recommended
this small Italian neighborhood
restaurant to me, and so we headed
over to "Joe V's" in Union Park in
the South End. Union Park is a long
block of brick Victorian townhouses,
surrounding an oblong gated park in
the British tradition. (Boston's
South End is the largest collection
of Victorian brick townhouses in
America; 40 picturesque and charming
blocks of these buildings, which
surround Irish and British-like
green parks, complete with
fountains.) "Joe V's" sits on one
corner, overlooking Union Park.
Inside, the restaurant is very "old
school" Italian, complete with
butcher-block tables, and original
art on the walls. I decided to order
two of my "test items," to test the
authenticity and accuracy of the
food preparation at a restaurant.
The first of these was the
appetizer, a Caesar Salad. It was
perfect. Prepared as a true Mexican
Caesar Salad, without any extras
(peas, chicken, tomatoes, etc.) The
second was my entree, Gnocchi with
Vodka Cream Sauce. Many good
restaurants have gone down in smoke
with this one. They're either
overcooked, or borderline "mashed
potatoes." Here they were just
right. I felt like Goldilocks! We
had some delicious Garlic Bread as a
side-dish. Dessert was a Chocolate
Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. Our
wine was a wonderful Cabernet
Sauvignon. Although it was crowded,
and very noisy, (and I could have
done without the plasma screen and
the football game,) this 3-year-old
place is a welcome addition to the
ever-growing South End dining scene.
(4-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW:"AMRHEINS"
"Southie" (South Boston)
has always been an area of the
city, that I rarely get over to.
Philosophically, if not
geographically, it always seemed a
world apart. That's probably why
I've never eaten at one of
Boston's grand 100-year-old
restaurants, "Amrheins." Just a
short cab-ride away, there's this
traditional old New England
restaurant called Amrheins. As you
step through the front doors, you
step into Boston-1890...a world of
tin ceilings, hand carved bars,
large ornamental mirrors and
leather and wood banquettes. The
menu is filled with every standard
New England dish that you could
possibly want. Because it was so
difficult to select a single
appetizer, we went for the combo
platter consisting of 6 appetizers
(fried calamari, chicken tenders
with chili sauce, chicken pot pie,
potato cups, crispy eggplant
sticks, and pan fried mozzarella.)
Of course, we were full after all
of this. Nevertheless, we did
order entrees. Mine was the
Stuffed Filet of Sole with
Atlantic Salmon, Goat Cheese
Mashed Potatoes and Baby
Spinach. My dessert (yes, I had
dessert!) was the Banana Bread
Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream and
Chocolate-covered Strawberry. We
managed to forget what we were
eating, with a smooth Cabernet
Sauvignon. It was just too damn
much of everything!
(4-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "LTK BAR & KITCHEN"
The Legal Sea Foods
culinary empire has created, on
Boston's waterfront, a test
kitchen that also serves as a
functioning hi-tech restaurant.
The purpose of this
experimental restaurant is to
test out new dishes which, if
successful, will find their way
onto the menus of Legal Sea
Foods restaurants around the
country. It's hi-tech aspect
involves laptop plug-ins, wi fi
capability, and plasma screens.
Waitresses place orders by
tapping on
blackberry-like menus. They'll
even bring a small TV to your
table, if you must watch TV
while you're eating! It's all
very 21st Century. With all of
these bells and whistles, one
must ask, "how's the food?" It's
great! My appetizer was a
perfect Caesar Salad. We ordered
a plate of Fried Calamari for
the table. My entree was a
delicious Grilled Day Boat Sole
with Lemon Caper Butter, Spinach
and Jasmine Rice. My dessert was
a Chocolate Ganache Peanut
Butter Tart with Oreo Cookie
Crust. Our wine was a creamy,
clean Soave Classico from the
Veneto in Italy. A caveat, if
you're planning to go, and have
made reservations, call several
times to confirm your
reservations, because they keep
losing them. After my third call
to confirm, only to find that
they didn't have me listed, I
told the manager, "get rid of
the resident idiot who's making
the reservations, and replace
her with a computer!" Other than
that, and the fact that the
young girl who brings you to
your table is a moron, the
place is a fun place to get
excellent seafood.
(3 1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "PANIFICIO BACK BAY"
Beacon's Hill's
charming trattoria has opened
a branch in the Back Bay, just
up the road from where I live,
and with its menu of paninis,
pizza, and hot entrees,
it looked to be a welcome
addition to our neighborhood.
On the corner of Commonwealth
Avenue, Boston's most
beautiful boulevard, and
Massachusetts Avenue, Boston's
busiest thoroughfare, it
certainly has a good location,
although parking could be a
big problem with no valet
service. We walked over,
so that was no problem for us.
Although it's small, it's
a nice little place, and its
large front patio should be
busy in the Spring and Summer.
Once we set foot in the door,
however, things started to
fall apart. First of all,
it's a cold little place.
Literally, cold. In addition
there was no one there.
Once we were seated we were
brought the menu, which was so
small that it didn't even
have an appetizer section.
So we ordered Salads for
starters...Caprese and
Mediterraneo. As entrees we
got Ricotta Gnocchi with Slow
Braised Short Ribs, Garlicky
Escarole and Parmesan Brodo.
When we asked to see the wine
list, we were told that
they didn't have a liquor
license yet. I had to
go up to the front counter to
ask our waiter to bring us
bread, which was stale
when he finally brought it,
accompanied by those little
plastic-wrapped squares of
butter that I hate. Our
dessert was an overly sweet
Lemon Meringue Tart. The
food was good, but the
negatives far outweighed the
positives. I give the place
another three months, and
it'll be a Starbucks!
(1-Star) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "COPIA"
Just across the
little bridge from Boston in
historic Charlestown, is the
new restaurant from
restaurateur Anthony
Caturano, (the owner of what
is arguably the North End's
best restaurant, "Prezza.")
This new place, "Copia," is
just across the square from
Todd English's first, and
original "Olives," and it
has a similar menu. Both
restaurants include dishes
from all countries bordering
the Mediterranean...from
Italy, Spain and France on
the North, to Northern
Africa on the South, and The
Middle East on the East.
That covers a lot of ground,
and it gives the chef plenty
of room to be highly
creative...and creative he
is. There were so many
delicious-sounding
appetizers from which to
choose, so we selected a
Mediterranean Antipasto
which included
several... Baba Ganoush,
Hummus, and Tzatziki on
Grilled Pita, as well as
Zucchini Fritters, Mixed
Olives and Marinated
Mushrooms! They were all
perfect. The entree section
was also filled with many
tempting choices, but I
couldn't resist the Gnocchi
with Broccoli Rabe and
Nuggets of Sausage. It was
excellent, but next time,
I'll go with the Whole
Branzini with Braised Winter
Greens. It looked great.
While reading the dessert
menu, I was distracted by
the sight of the
magnificent, new Bunker Hill
Bridge, just outside the
wide expanse of windows. So
dramatic. Back to the
dessert menu. I chose the
Cheesecake with Spiced Apple
and Walnut Compote. We also
had an order of wonderful
Zeppole Dipped in Honey for
the table. Our wine was a
dry, but potent, Nero
D'Avola Sicilian Red. The
room is done in all shades
of beige, which makes for a
perfect backdrop for the
wildly-colorful dishes being
served. Were there any
negatives about this
beautiful new place? Yes.
It's cold (my head froze
every time the damn door
opened,) and loud. So bring
a cap and earplugs!
(4 1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "MIEL" (at the Intercontinental Hotel)
Those tall shiny
towers on the waterfront
are the new
Intercontinental Hotel.
The front entrance to the
hotel opens onto what will
soon become the Rose
Fitzgerald Kennedy
Greenway (formerly "The
Big Dig,") Boston's
three-mile long downtown
park, which replaces the
rusty old Expressway. A
grand entrance for a grand
hotel. The main restaurant
at the hotel, is "Miel,"
Boston's first 24-hour
Brasserie Provencale.
Boston already has several
authentic and excellent
French bistros and
brasseries, but this one
is the first one that is
open 24/7. Michelin rated
(2-star) Celebrity Chef
Jacques Chibois, has
created a menu celebrating
the wonders of Provence,
including lavender, honey
("miel",) and olive oil.
The restaurant includes a
glass-enclosed dining room
with a chef's table made
from a one
thousand-year-old olive
tree. In the
summer, the outdoor dining
terrace in the back,
will overlook the
historical Boston
waterfront. We'll have to
come back then. For now,
we looked at the menu and
ordered. My appetizer was
a Pistou Soup with
Vegetables and
Basil...authentic and
delicious. My entree was
one of my favorites,
Grilled Dover Sole with
Mandarin-flavored Olive
Oil. We ordered the Plat
des Fromages for the
table, and followed it up
with a delicious Chocolate
Torte with Honey Ice
Cream. Our wine was a
tasty Sauvignon Bargemone
de Provence. Everything
about "Miel" is
class...French Provencale
decor, service, food
preparation, presentation
and taste. A great
addition to the
Waterfront, and the
late-night dining scene in
Boston.
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "PLUM ISLAND GRILLE"
Drive up the
North Shore, past "The
Witch City" of Salem,
and into the beautiful
oceanfront town of
Newburyport. Cross the
tiny bridge, and you're
on the marshes of Plum
Island. On the inland
edge of the state's
largest barrier island,
is the romantic Plum
Island Grille. From the
dingy exterior, it looks
like a beach shack where
you might buy crab cakes
and lobster rolls. But
don't be put off. Inside
it's a charming
candle-lit inn with
tables formally set for
a grand dinner.
Chef/Owner Francis
Broadbery's world-class
creative cuisine has
been given countless
awards by every
important magazine, but
tonight is something
special. Tonight,
Broadbery is serving a
Classic French Wine
Dinner, with wines
paired with each course.
My seat faced the open
kitchen and I was able
to watch the
military-like efficient
preparation of the
dishes, by the chef and
his two sous-chefs. We
started with an amuse-bouche
called Trio des Cornets.
It consisted of a trio
of cornets
("horns,") filled with
Brie Mousse and Apricot
Jam, a Trumpet Royale
Pate with Tomato Thyme
Confit, and a Truffled
Honey Creme Fraiche with
Beluga Caviar. This was
served with a Sipp Mack
Pinot Gris Reserve. My
appetizer was a Souffle
de Fromage, served atop
a Pear Gelee. The wine
for this dish was a Jean
Noel Gagnard Chassagne
Montrechet Maltroie. The
soup course was a Bisque
de Morel et Tartuffe.
The wine, a Jean Marc
Bouley Pommard. My
entree was a Beurre
Monte Poached Sea
Scallop...(Large Sea
Scallops Poached in
Butter served over a
Lobster Blini, with
a Saffron and Vanilla
Jus, accompanied by an
Asparagus Gratin.) This
was paired with a
Chateau La Nerthe
Chateauneuf du Pape
Blanc. For dessert we
had a Petite Tarte Tatin,
with a Trio of Mousse.
The wine was a
Sauternes. There was a
Plat de Fromage (Mimolette,
French Brie, Chimay
Grand Cru, and Saint
Andre.) This was served
with a Chateau
Beausoleil. In between
each course, a
knowledgeable sommelier
described the wine about
to be served for that
course. He was extremely
informative, and I
learned a great deal.
The wine pairings were
absolutely perfect. The
magnificent sunsets
and stunning panoramic
marsh views just outside
the windows, are no
competition for the
incredible food being
served. If you're in the
Boston area when this
kind of special dinner
is served again, don't
miss it!
(5-Stars)
RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW:
"FRANK'S STEAK HOUSE"
When Zagat published
its most recent list
of the "Top 10
Steakhouses in
Boston," I realized
that I had eaten at
all of them except one
(and I'm not a steak
person.) So, I decided
to remedy this by
checking out the
remaining
steakhouse..."the
oldest steakhouse in
Boston." After a $20
taxi ride from my
place, we arrived at
what appeared to be a
fairly large
unassuming
neighborhood
restaurant. When we
went into the already
crowded lobby (over 1
1/2-hour waits for
tables without
reservations) we were
seated fairly quickly.
Now that's all of the
good things that I can
say about this
ridiculous place! The
clientele was very
blue collar...truckers
with fat wives. Our
booth was a decent
size, although my
friend Ryan slipped
into a hole where his
seat cushion should
have been. The decor
of the place is sort
of upscale
cafeteria...a Perkins
on steroids! The menu
was typical, and our
waitress took our
orders. Then
everything went wrong.
The plates started to
arrive too
quickly...appetizers,
salads and soups at
the same time. The
Nachos Platter was a
good one, but
everything else was
bland. Who would have
known that the Nachos
Platter was going to
be the best dish of
the evening...and THAT
wasn't anything
special! Although the
dishes arrived
quickly, they were
very slow in being
removed, so our table
began to resemble the
place in a cafeteria
where you return your
used plates. My Petite
Filet Mignon with
Lobster Bernaise Sauce
in a Puff Pastry, with
Sauteed Vegetables and
Potatoes was nothing
more than a flattened
piece of chewy mystery
meat, in an
uncooked Pillsbury
roll. On the side were
some undercooked
zucchini, and the kind
of mashed potatoes
that you feed to
babies who are
teething. The less
said about my
rock-solid Oreo Ice
Cream Cake, the
better. Did I mention
that the service was
terrible? Our waitress
forgot to bring me my
Guinness, and had to
be asked to
bring bread and water
to the table. She
brought the check long
before I asked for it.
Oh, why continue. The
place is a mess; don't
ever go there!
(1-Star) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "SASSO"
"Sasso" is
the third restaurant
to occupy what some
people might have
considered to be
a beautiful, but
jinxed, location in
a prime spot on
Huntington Avenue.
Restaurateur Tony
Ambrose opened the
spot 12 years ago
with his elegant
Italian restaurant
"Ambrosia." Then,
after mysteriously
closing it at the
height of its
popularity, he
reopened it as a
rustic, yet upscale,
seafood place called
"Blackfin." When
Ambrose finally
called it quits, the
owners of the
wonderful "Lucca" in
the North End bought
it, and after a
thorough renovation,
just opened it as
the lavish "Sasso."
So much for
background. As you
approach "Sasso,"
one perceives a
large dimly-lit,
high-ceilinged room
through the
two-story-high street-front
windows. Once
inside, the room is
simply decorated
and candle-lit, but
the overall effect
is grand...with
a wide
marble-staircase
leading up to
another dining room
on the mezzanine
level. Service is
very attentive and
we were soon
presented with the
menu, with its heavy
emphasis on game
(wild boar, venison,
rabbit, etc.) The
other items on the
menu put "Sasso"
smack in the
category of "alta
cucina." No
spaghetti and
meatballs, or
chicken parmigiana
here! We skipped the
gamey choices. My
appetizer was
Crespelle...Whole
Wheat Crepe with
Wild Mushrooms,
Leeks, Escarole,
Pecorino, and
Truffle Vinaigrette.
My entree was
Cappasante...Olive-Crusted
Scallops with Beluga
Lentils, Applewood
Smoked Bacon, and
Agrodolce Pepper
Reduction. We
ordered the Cheese
Plate which
consisted of Tartufa,
Ubriano, Craba, and
Pecorino di Fosa...all
delicious. My
dessert was an
assortment of
Sorbetti. We washed
all of this down
with a hearty
Cabernet Sauvignon
from Napa. Welcome
to the Back Bay, "Sasso."
You're a classy
addition to our
neighborhood...and a
short three-block
walk from my place!
(5-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "THE ALCHEMIST LOUNGE"
When a bar
like Triple
D's, that's
been a
neighborhood
favorite for
15 years,
closes down,
and is
replaced by a
yuppie-appearing
"lounge," that
place better
be damn good,
in order to
keep the old
clientele, and
still
attract the
kind of pretty
young things
who drink
mojitos and
eat tiny tapas.
From the looks
of the crowd
tonight, it
seems to be
doing just
that...and
this is Spring
Break Week for
nearby
Northeastern!
The place is
huge, and the
decor is still
more pub than
lounge (God
knows, Jamaica
Plain has
enough pubs!)
But the crowd
seems to like
it, so I guess
that the
transition is
working. I had
heard that The
Alchemist has
a great
Shepherd's
Pie, one of my
comfort food
favorites, so
I ordered
that, and it
was delicious
and plentiful.
In fact, all
of the
portions are
large. My
appetizer was
one of the
best Caesar
Salads that
I've had
outside of
Mexico, and it
was prepared
in the Mexican
way, with
unbroken
leaves of
Romaine. Even
though we were
stuffed,
there's always
room for
dessert, which
was Apple
Crisp a la
Mode. Although
the place was
packed, our
waitress had
time to be
nice, as well
as competent.
Now THAT'S
refreshing.
Although the
food is very
good, and the
portions are
generous; the
service is
attentive and
knowledgeable;
and the prices
are very
reasonable,
The Alchemist
still needs a
make-over.
Even a few
well-placed
plants,
tablecloths on
the wooden
tables,
and some nice,
colorful paintings
on the walls,
would do the
trick. Then it
would be a
restaurant
that would
draw people
from further
afield than
the immediate
neighborhood.
(3
1/2-Stars) RESTAURANT MA-REVIEW: "POWOW RIVER GRILLE"
Once
again we set
off on a
culinary
adventure to
the North
Shore, to
participate
in another
of Chef/Owner
Francis
Broadbery's
Classic Wine
Dinners.
Last month,
it was a
superb Classic
Wine FRENCH
Dinner, and
last night
it was a
Classic Wine
SPANISH
Dinner. This
time, the
venue was
the Powow
River Grille
in Amesbury,
chef
Broadbery's
other
restaurant
on the North
Shore. (He
really
should do
something
about the
terrible
names of his
two
restaurants!)
We were told
by diners at
last month's
dinner, that
the Powow
River Grille
was more
elegant than
the Plum
Island
Grille. It
certainly
was. The
restaurant
is in one of
the great
old
renovated
textile
mills of
Amesbury.
All of the
old mills
have been
beautifully
converted
into condos,
restaurants,
and shops.
Once again,
the tables
were set
with candles
and fine
china. The
view from
our table,
up on the
balcony next
to the
fireplace,
was of the
entire
restaurant's
interior
below, and
outside our
window was a
Norman
Rockwell-ish
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